![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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Frank is correct. Without correct prep work, and allowing the laquer to breath out the solvents, you may have an adhesion issue, or undercoat swelling. If you're going to shoot laquer, shoot it on correctly, block it, and buff up the shine. I doubt you're going to be in VOC compliance, and unless you have some experience with it, I'd stay with a bc/cc system. Most people who have little experience with laquer wind up with a dry, rough paint job. But, good luck.
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#2
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HI i painted a winter beater and drove the car for three years painted lacqer with urathane clear if you want to use lacqer on a show car paint it then clear it with ///HOUSE of colouers clear/// IT IS A LACQER CLEAR
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Barry Allan |
#3
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Well, I think what I am getting at here is that I have a chance to get all of these tints for what it would cost me just for the material for one paint job. I can get a lot more colors by buying the tints from him and the scale and tint book. Debating on wether or not it's gonna be worth my $ and the storage of a hundred +/- gallons of tints. I know lacquer is a lot of work! Twice to three times as labor intensive. Not my worry because I'm a do it yourselfer. He told me that the clear that he has has some sort of UV protectant in it. No clue on that though. I have seen a car or two out in the show field that had a lacquer job done on it and you couldn't tell the difference between that and a urathane job. Take a look at my two cars in the member gallery. I did both of those paint jobs at home!
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Jed 69,70,71 Nova's 1955 Bel Air and a 69 Camaro. |
#4
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Does your uncle have any new unopened R-M factory pack pints or quarts of lacquer (factory already mixed colors) ? I am interested in some for a display I have.
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#5
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George, I think the only factory pack he had was for a 66 Vette and that he got from Stoudts Corvettes. But that was like 20+ yrs ago. He sold that with the car. But I think that's all he ever had and he used to own his own body shop. You want the stuff that was packed from the GM paint vats correct?
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Jed 69,70,71 Nova's 1955 Bel Air and a 69 Camaro. |
#6
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Is there somewhere a guy can get enough Garnet Red laquer to touch-up a quarter panel? I'm helping my nephew fix-up an original survivor (occasional driver) Camaro? Please PM or email me at [email protected]
Thanks! |
#7
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IMO I would leave it alone. Something like that will stand out like a sore thumb. Especially red. I hope it's not a whole quarter panel?
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Jed 69,70,71 Nova's 1955 Bel Air and a 69 Camaro. |
#8
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I had some lacquer mixed recently thru my local auto parts Dupont Dealer it was PPG Duracryl acrylic lacquer.
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#9
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[ QUOTE ]
He told me that the clear that he has has some sort of UV protectant in it. [/ QUOTE ] Understand, I'm going back twenty-five plus years now, but I used Metalflake Brand clear coat on some work I did back then. It was truly 'clear' in the can and gave a fantastic finish. HOWEVER, it did not hold up well to exposure. I think most of the slightly amber tinted clear coats DO contain some amount UV protection additive. Maybe that's what gives it the tint. ![]() BTW, I'd LOVE to find some vintage R&M Black acrylic lacquer! (Or some DuPont 99L.) ![]()
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Don't mistake education for intelligence. I worked with educated people. I socialize with intelligent people. |
#10
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I agree that the Metalflake brand was the best clear on the market at the time. The Dupont always seemed a little cloudy and yellow. The issue with laquer is that it has no elasticity. Metal expands, and contracts with temperature. Laquer does not move with it. That's why you get all the cracks. Bike tanks usually didn't last long at all. 55 degree gas in a tank that's been in the sun on a hot July day is pretty hard on the paint.
Mr. Cumby, remind me to check on that 99L if I forget. We might be able to find you some. ![]() |
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