![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Today's Posts | Search |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Oh, man, the Ford love is flowin'
![]() 5th digit of the VIN is what you're looking for. 427 8V = R 427 4V = Q 406 6V = G 406 4v = B 390 4v = Z Do the engine block check, casting numbers will be on the side (C3AE -M or AB) and the bolt heads just above the pan rail on the sides will be there on a 427. Cylinder heads will have casting numbers in the spaces between the exhaust ports- early cars will be C3AE 6090-D (Dec '62-Mar 15 '63) and later ones will be C3AE 6090 G or H (Mar 15 onward). This is key for value because almost every early 427 or 406 Galaxie that was pressed into duty as a regular car got fitted with a 390 later in life (mine had a '65 Mercury 390 2V in it). Assembling a correct 427 will end up costing you $6 to 10K. Look to see if it still has the long cast iron headers as they run $600-$1000 per pair. Trans will be a BW T10, but '64 Galaxie Toploaders are a common substitute. Car should have 3" front brakes, no power steering or brakes, and should show evidence of always being a stick car. VIN is on the firewall tab, trim tag, and there's a hidden one under the back seat, either on the front edge of the package tray or down toward the floor. Let me know if you need any more info... ![]() TOM BRESKE |
|
|