1966 Corvette L72 Light Refresh

[napa68]

Nothing more than a small PSA. Perhaps a bunch of you guys already do this. I blew out the frame rails in the 66 today. This is a byproduct of about an hour. Remarkable what sits inside the frame rails.

[Too Many Projects]

That is very minimal for a 57 yr old car. Looks like mice have been in there at some point.
Is there such a tool as a refillable pressure container with a hose and conical nozzle to spray BoeShield in there ?
I cut the right rocker off the '70 Chevelle and got a 2 lb coffee can full of rust, dirt and mouse nest "stuff" ...

[60sStuff]

Really ….. you just blew out 59 years of Original particles from various roadways this Corvette traveled

Have a nice chilly day Tim.

BTW, great thorough BaT auction on the Red Roadster!

[PeteLeathersac]

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects

Is there such a tool as a refillable pressure container with a hose and conical nozzle to spray BoeShield in there ?

In the 80’s I worked for the Canadian Co. Rust-Check which is the Automotive Rust-proofing derivative of Boeshield. What we used to apply the product then was approximate 4-8’ pieces of transmission lines w/ airline fittings and product feed on lead end and other ends squeezed/brazed closed but w/ a few hacksaw slits near the tips allowing product to blast out about 180 degrees while under compressed air pressure, lead ends were marked so you knew which direction the spray was pointing to avoid direct soaking insides of door panels etc. Drilling holes big enough for the tubes to fit through, you’d push the tubes in and out of doors/fenders/quarter panels/truck box sides etc while squeezing the trigger and the product would fan out of the slits which resulted in spectacular coverage of areas you’d never gain access to otherwise. Under pressure, product would often blow out the complete opposite side of the vehicle also removing a door panel or inserting a borescope to view coverage success, it was amazing how well the process worked. Also important was drilling A-Pillars near the base of the windshields but above the welds that a lot of cars had then as many A-Pillars were full of water, which you’d of course allow to drain before hitting w/ the product. One more thing, the plastic plugs you’d insert into the drilled holes after process completion were soaked in product so bare hole edges had product on them too.
Boeshield and Rust Check are formulas w/ synthetic oil as their carrier which displaces moisture and reacts w/ metals, rust which is also a chemical reaction, cannot happen at the same time. Boeing was experiencing reactions between the aluminum skins and rivets which would loosen rivets similar to when something freezes/expands, Boeshield reacting stops the metal reactions…same idea w/ automobiles and steel materials using Rust Check.
Lastly, there’s other copy-cat products out there, some very well marketed too but they don't have the same recipe and chemical reactions, just oil doing their rustproofing. Tar products do little good also often block drains, they also electronic devices are more to pretend they’re doing something while what they’re really selling you is a warranty.
Sorry this got so long, I started typing to mention the tranny lines for product application.

~ Pete

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[napa68]

Now that MCACN is behind me, I can get busy on some tedious little items. I blasted the exhaust manifolds, dusted in some paint on the top (where some remains previously existed) and then soaked the rest of the manifold. I suspect this will burn in nicely and play the part, albeit a little cleaner than previous.


The shifter boot has seen it's better days.


I had an NOS unit in my stash


A little gentle heat would make the boot take it's proper shape



While waiting for the trailering arms to come back, I cleaned up the spare tire carrier and the applicable bolts. Some time in Evaporust and the ultrasonic cleaner helped things along.



This one that has certainly seen it's better days. Nonetheless, clean it up and wait for a better unit to find it's way to me.




Lastly, I got word the engine just came off the dyno. The smoking gun(s) on the vibration issue consisted of.....
1. The crank required 100 grams of heavy metal to be added
2. None of the pistons had been balanced nor were the rods

I'll post more about the engine when I get it back to the shop. I'm told 460hp is the peak number. That is with dyno headers and the original 3247 Holley. Historically, the dyno at AMS is stingy. Furthermore, Steve is not one to spin an original numbers engine hard unless instructed to do so. More to come!

[olredalert]

----Good news on the pill, Tim! Great #'s on the dyno. Should make a great keeper. Appreciated our too short visit time....Bill S

[napa68]

Originally Posted by olredalert

----Good news on the pill, Tim! Great #'s on the dyno. Should make a great keeper. Appreciated our too short visit time....Bill S

It was certainly enjoyable BS'n Bill. I was busy over the show weekend judging 67 Corvette's . When I finally got finished up, I spent the rest of the time catching up with so many friends I have made in this hobby. I basically never saw the show. While the cars are great, the people are priceless

[napa68]

Yesterday morning I hit the road at 4am to go get the engine from Steve. We finally got dug out from the 2' of snow we received (had 3ft on the north end of town).

After a good 9 hours in the truck (over 600 miles) I am back in the shop with the engine.....




As I had touched on earlier, the balance in the engine was detectably off. The larger skirts on L2300F TRW pistons made them a fair amount heavier than the original GM pistons. It so happened to be Steve had a set of original 67 L71 pistons. Almost a 30 gram difference between the two piston configurations alone. The L2300F's had not been balanced, nor were the rods. Once the rods and pistons were balanced, the crank still required 100 grams of heavy metal to be welded into the 6223 crank. All is good now.

The block needed nothing more than a fresh hone with a deck plate, pistons cleaned, the crank was polished (standard), and ARP bolts fitted to the stock rods. The valves and valve guides looked good, as was the valve stem / guide clearance. The valve springs were right on spec, and the replacement 143 cam / lifters all looked fantastic. The heads were lightly resurfaced and a "detailed" valve job completed. I am speculating the engine was rebuilt in the late 80's to early 90's (bearings were dated 1987).

So, here is the dyno sheet. As you can see, Steve spun it to 5500 and peak had already been established. This is one of those projects where the dyno is merely used to seat the new rings, ensure there are no leaks, make a few pulls to validate the combination, as well as confirm the AFR's. This was not an exercise to chase power with timing, carb, or lash changes. The carb is the original 3247 Holley that was refreshed by Phil earlier this year. Stock jetting and all. 2" primary dyno headers. 91 octane pump gas.

I was pleasantly surprised with the torque numbers / curve. I asked Steve where he placed the cam, and all I got was a stupid little grin.


Now I have some discreet paint work to complete. I want to hide the blue Fel Pro gaskets, and get some color on the reproduction freeze plugs (no printing or embossments). I have much of what is needed to start reassembly of the car. More updates to follow......

[Arrowsmith]

You might need a wholesale deal on back tires with that torque curve! Very nice! It will be a hoot to bang gears with that thing…Awesomeness right there! W

[TimG]

Tim, I know you hesitated to pull that motor, but I'm sure you will be glad you did it once the car is all back together. Those numbers are great.