Evaporust tips & tricks

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by wthirty1

What size PVC for the driveshaft? Anyone able to post a picture of their system for Evaporusting a full driveshaft? I assume the entire shaft is submerged, or do you rotate it 180?

-Get a tube section wide enough to barely fit the driveshaft.

-Buy some plastic adhesive that is designed for that type of pipe and glue one end permanently so it won't leak. It is usually in the same aisle as the pipe at Home Depot.

-This Cuda driveshaft only needed one gallon to full submerge.

-Remember that most driveshafts float since they are welded tubes so you might want to throw the yoke on top like I did, to weigh it down.

-Also buy a cheap aquarium pond heater. The warmer the fluid the more effective it is. 85 degrees is a great temp. If it is cold in your garage it works real slow.

-Pull the object out each day to scrub any residue off so the fluid can attack a new layer.

-Markings such as on driveshafts may disappear if the paint is water based or latex. Or if the paint is on a rusty portion of the object. I had to dip test a GM driveshaft to make sure the fluid level in the pipe was just below the stripes, otherwise they would have been destroyed. They used a really crappy paint to make those ID stripes.

BEWARE USING IT ON POTMETAL ITEMS - THEY CAN DISSOLVE! I really messed up a steering column component that way.

[SS427]

You will want it fully submerged. If not you will get a liquid parting line on the metal which is hard to make look good and/or disappear. Within the PVC tube, once the shaft is put inside it will not require a lot of Evaporust to encase it. My tube is 59" long (I disassemble u-joints before soaking) and 4" inside diameter white PVC.

[earntaz]

Originally Posted by SS427

You will want it fully submerged. If not you will get a liquid parting line on the metal which is hard to make look good and/or disappear. Within the PVC tube, once the shaft is put inside it will not require a lot of Evaporust to encase it. My tube is 59" long (I disassemble u-joints before soaking) and 4" inside diameter white PVC.

^^^^ Make sure to measure your driveshaft and add about 2 inches. Glue one end cap on and make sure you can remove the other end cap. You may have sand the pipe some. Make sure you have all the grease and other contamination removed before soaking. I left my driveshaft in over night and it looked brand new the next day. TAZ

[wthirty1]

Originally Posted by SS427

You will want it fully submerged. If not you will get a liquid parting line on the metal which is hard to make look good and/or disappear. Within the PVC tube, once the shaft is put inside it will not require a lot of Evaporust to encase it. My tube is 59" long (I disassemble u-joints before soaking) and 4" inside diameter white PVC.

Awesome, thanks. I'll head to Home Depot this afternoon and grab a 4" PVC pipe.

[rlw68]

The original paint marks on the driveshaft might remain unless its soaked too long. I'd check it after 10 hours or so. More than 24 hours will likely dissolve them away. Lots of variables and luck involved here.

These are one trick ponies. I'm not sure what to do with it now??

[Crush]

Originally Posted by rlw68

The original paint marks on the driveshaft might remain unless its soaked too long. I'd check it after 10 hours or so. More than 24 hours will likely dissolve them away. Lots of variables and luck involved here.

These are one trick ponies. I'm not sure what to do with it now??


Attachment 175165

Here’s an idea

https://www.artofmanliness.com/artic...potato-cannon/

[R68GTO]

I had a little rust coming the the yellow zinc coating on my fuel pump. Soaked it in evaporust and forgot about it for a couple of days. All the yellow zinc was gone so beware of soak time on certain platings.

[68camaroz28]

Originally Posted by rlw68

The original paint marks on the driveshaft might remain unless its soaked too long. I'd check it after 10 hours or so. More than 24 hours will likely dissolve them away. Lots of variables and luck involved here.

These are one trick ponies. I'm not sure what to do with it now??


Attachment 175165

https://www.camaros.net/threads/time...4#post-1566535
Much of this seems so familiar when I documented this process over a decade ago in our build thread. 5’ long pc capped at one and two gallons will submerge your driveshaft. I had ours in 24 hrs checked it and soaked another 24 for a total 48 hrs and then documented the paint markings and there were many including the yokes both ends. If u look at the link posted scan down to the second driveshaft as the first one posted was not off our 68z. Also that link gives some other examples of how well evaporust works. Have fun!

[sixt9rsx33]

Originally Posted by rlw68

The original paint marks on the driveshaft might remain unless its soaked too long. I'd check it after 10 hours or so. More than 24 hours will likely dissolve them away. Lots of variables and luck involved here.

These are one trick ponies. I'm not sure what to do with it now??


Attachment 175165

Agree

[sixt9rsx33]

I have done three driveshafts with good results.
I have also done steering gear in a wall paper hanging bucket.
I have basically done three car restorations using this stuff, and some spot work on other cars. What I have found is that if you leave zinc coated parts in ER too long it will pull the zinc off the part. It will also remove paint from parts. This is usually not as big of a problem as the zinc lifting. When you reuse it the color turns black and will leave a residue on parts but it can removed with water and light scrubbing. But when you do that make sure you dunk the part in fresh ER otherwise it will flash rust quickly. I really like to dunk the just treated part in fresh ER and let it dry to protect it further.