Delfleet Essential Black Polyurethane

[70-SS/RS-L78]

I also use the SPI Epoxy, Great stuff. The type and amount of reducer will effect the gloss level so when you get the desired finish keep track of the amount of matt and reducer that was used. I also learned the hard way that baking the parts will also effect the gloss. I used to add a small amount of white and yellow to the black on some of the underhood parts to duplicate the black that the factory used. That formula is now worthless. I'm gonna have to start all over when I decide which black SS I am going to start using. I'm leaning towards the SPI. Barry has a great product and he stands behind it.
Mark

[L16pilot]

Mark and Chuck,

On the subject of the SPI epoxy, I spoke to Barry and have been working with his Epoxy for a couple of years on my 70Z project. Per Barry's advice and based on my own working experience, I get more consistent results in the gloss / flat appearance using the epoxy versus urethanes, whether they be clears or solids. For the black, I used anywhere between 3% and 8% by weight flattener before adding the hardener.

On a side note, to duplicate the 70 Norwood red oxide, I like 8% black and 5% flattener by weight added to SPI's red oxide epoxy (pre-hardener). I understand the red oxide appearance could change based on several factors, but based on original no-UV exposure panels I have, the above matches very well.