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#1
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That makes sense good to know thanks.On the chevys i use the brown aviation sealer with the seal staggerd a quarter inch from the parting lines its always worked good for me.Those serrated knureled areas in the crank of a pontiac have puzzeled me.Almost every one i talk too around here has had leaks.
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#2
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The boy and I installed the pistons and rods today. We each did four. I got the odd side and he did the even side. (Ignore the harmonic damper puller on the crank...it was the only thing I could find with the proper threads to go in the crankshaft. I didn't have a spare balancer bolt anywhere). [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img]
Got the old dial indicator set to TDC. Checked the deck height with using both a flat edge and feeler gauge and then verified with a depth caliper. Got -.016 for both readings on all eight bores. Checked the ring gaps yesterday prior to installing rings on pistons. ![]() ![]() ![]() Showed him how to measure rotating torque...and told him several more times to keep his left hand off of the measuring indicator....I figured after he got incorrect readings after ten or fiftten revolutions he would eventually listen to me and do it properly without the interfering hand. He finally got a reading of 300 inch pounds. I made him do the math to convert it to foot pounds. (25 lb.ft.) ![]() |
#3
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What do you use to lubricate the rings during assembly?
Steve |
#4
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I used some 5W-30 oil on the bores, rings, and wrist pins. Lubriplate 105 on the bearings. I actually used up the tube that I had for the past decade or so, on this engine. Had to break down and buy another tube at NAPA for $7.99.
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