The New Project: Part Deux!

[njsteve]

Sure, if we can manage it in three hours, at the local high school, at night!

[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]

I am trying my best to get all the underbody stuff done myself, so when it comes time to paint, it is just topside stuff, only.

[njsteve]

Is there anyone out there (near me in NJ) who has the equipment to paint the correct spatter paint in my trunk? I dont want to do the spray can method and would much rather get the correct finish done, whether by paying for it or borrowing/renting the equipment.

[njsteve]

I finished up the bodywork and prep on the driver's side trunk drop-off. In order to reproduce the original heavy body shutz sound deadener I used a couple cans of spray-on bedliner instead of undercoating. It worked very well as long as you spray it from at least a foot away to allow it to hit the panel in a dryer state. You don't want to spray it on wet. It will look too smooth at a minimum and will all &quot;landslide&quot; off the panel if it is too wet.

Here is the original drop-off from my 1972 Trans Am that was built a week before the Formula at Norwood:



And the finished result:



It's a helluva lot better looking than the way it came:

[njsteve]

I got the trunk finished today. I spent a couple hours soaking the plastic tail lamp housings in PurpleStuff degreaser to remove the fossilized remains of that roofing tar/rustproofing that encased them. I also pulled the tail lamp wiring harness out and masked off the trunk area.

I first used some red oxide primer to spray a small area at the inner, tops of both NOS quarters because they were still in their original black E-coat, instead of red oxide dip primer. I then sprayed the areas that were going to get the trunk speckle paint with dark grey sandable primer. This really helped with the speckle paint coverage. I was able to do the entire trunk with one can of the Eastwood Trunk Paint since the background dark grayish color was already there.

To get the right finish I really stood back a ways to get the spray as dry as possible when it landed. I was spraying from outside of the trunk opening most of the time and I used small one-second bursts with the can until I got enough coverage to resemble the original speckle finish that is still remaining in some areas of the trunk, such as the trunk latch bulkhead. I think it came out reasonably well for a spray can job.

Here's the original post pressure washing photo:



And today's results:

[70 Forest Green Zee]

Steve....that trunk turned out excellent! You are quite a craftsman and I enjoy reading your threads and seeing how you tackle particular areas of your restorations. Keep those pics and this thread going....I'm sure many here feel the same!!!

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

I agree 100%, keep the pics and commentary coming.

Ryan

[njsteve]

Thanks guys!

Sometimes I wonder who is reading this stuff or if I am posting for my own entertainment. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img] My other thread has over a million-and-a-half views now. It's like it has a life of its own now!

[mockingbird812]

Sharp Mac! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

[SuperNovaSS]

I am thoroughly entertained by your threads. I've through about posting similar threads about cleaning original parts but there never seems to be enough time in the day. I am revamping my blasting cabinet in the next month and will try to post results of different types of cleaning that can be done in a media blaster. I have learned a lot from your posts Steve.

Thanks for taking the time,

Jason

[KevinW]

Steve, that is pretty much exactly how I did mine, but I did the black undercoat, since 69s are black and aqua. Not sure about Eastwoods, but my Duplicolor was still very fragile when completely dry. It would rub off easily. I ended up putting many coats (7) of spray can matte clear to get a good protective coat. Kevin