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When I was younger (okay, much younger...and somewhat more foolish
![]() When the swell height and direction are just right...the wave enegry rebounds off the breakwater and the joins up with the next incoming wave and "Wedges" together (hence the name)...sometimes doubling in height in a second or two. If that's not enough...the waves break in about 3 1/2 feet of water...usually less than 200 feet from the beach ![]() ![]() ![]() As I look back now...I am darn lucky I didn't break my back...or worse ![]() BTW, this is the beach break where "Marion Michael Morrison" screwed up his athletic career...and went into acting...to become John Wayne. He still loved the area so much...that he lived just over a block away until he passed away. Enjoy the video! ![]() ![]()
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