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#291
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If the exhaust valve is not working (for whatever reason) that would contribute to the carbon fouled plugs. It would be easy to back off the #8 rocker arm (when the intake valve is staring to close) in order to see if the push rod is straight.
If it's bent, well that would be an easy fix. But, usually there is an underlying reason the push rod is bent. In my case (early years) it was due to missing 3rd gear ![]() You could say I broke some parts while honing my craft ![]() |
#292
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The exhaust valve not opening enough will cause a backfire thru the carb, as the cylinder IS getting gas and firing, but the burnt gas can't get out of the cylinder, so it will back up into the intake when that valve opens.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#293
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The pushrod is definitely straight- I pulled it and looked at it.
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My cars, passed down by my grandfather: '68 Camaro SS (454/TH400, possible L78/M22) LeMans Blue, black deluxe interior, black vinyl top. 3.73- mostly Day 2. '89 Mustang GT- 3.55, subframe connectors, muffler delete, and a couple other minor mods. Exactly as he wanted it, so how it shall stay Also: 1995 Ford F-150 XL 2004 Dodge Ram Hemi GTX- #192 of 433 Ain't no fun in viewing your car as an 'investment'. Get out there and beat on it! |
#294
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Well, I finally yanked the intake. The cam is trashed Cylinder number 8s exhaust lobe is definitely round and all the others have pitting on them. I think I caught it before sending trash too far through the engine, so I guess the plan is to pull the cam, confirm the grind, get a new one (If it's COMP I'm going to avoid that and have Crower or Isky grind an exact duplicate of whatever's in it. My friend highly recommends either and I've been hearing far too many horror stories about Comp lately), and keep a very close eye on the oil when I get it running and follow the break in to a T.
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My cars, passed down by my grandfather: '68 Camaro SS (454/TH400, possible L78/M22) LeMans Blue, black deluxe interior, black vinyl top. 3.73- mostly Day 2. '89 Mustang GT- 3.55, subframe connectors, muffler delete, and a couple other minor mods. Exactly as he wanted it, so how it shall stay Also: 1995 Ford F-150 XL 2004 Dodge Ram Hemi GTX- #192 of 433 Ain't no fun in viewing your car as an 'investment'. Get out there and beat on it! |
#295
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While you may get away with a cam/lifter swap...a prudent approach would be to check all the internals for any possible issues. Pulling an engine isn't fun, but it is cheap insurance in the long run.
Double roller steel chain and gears are a must...you might also want to check valve train items [springs, keepers, retainers, seals]. Given the legacy of the car...not a good time for shortcuts. -wilma
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02 Berger 380hp #95 Lots of L78 Novas Join National Nostalgic Nova! 70 Orange Cooler 69 Camaro |
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dykstra (11-21-2023) |
#296
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There has been plenty of metal shavings in the oil from all that damage. I'm on the "pull the engine" wagon and remove the pan and inspect all the bearings. If the crank isn't scored but there is shavings in the bearings, you can get away with just replacing them.
If the cam is an old school, long duration build, there are better grinds available now that will help the engine have more vacuum and the same or better power range than what is in there. Sorry you have to deal with this. This problem has become all to common in the past several years and especially recently. I have a 20 year old Comp 280H in my 496 that sounds cool but is a pain in the butt to drive on the street. I'm going to be looking at a hydraulic roller conversion for next year.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
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dykstra (11-21-2023) |
#297
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Agree with the others, for a permanent fix, you're talking about pulling the engine, disassembly, inspection, and likely a rebuild. The missing metal had to go somewhere and that means the oil, into the bearings, etc. No quick fix here unless you want something short term, but think you're in for a rebuild, or pull the engine, set it aside and drop in a running unit until time / funds allow a proper rebuild if that engine is something worth saving.
Also, probably smart to disconnect the battery before proceeding further. |
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dykstra (11-21-2023) |
#298
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Dave Dykstra 1968 Camaro Palomino Ivory/Ivy Gold interior -Delivered to Courtesy Chevrolet, Los Angeles, CA 2013 Corvette Grand Sport 60th Anniversary Edition Arctic White/Diamond Blue interior -Delivered to Bill Jacobs Chevrolet, Joliet, IL NCRS#66003 “One test result is worth one thousand expert opinions”—Werner Von Braun Dykstra Motorsports |
#299
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Glad you found the problem.
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Dave Dykstra 1968 Camaro Palomino Ivory/Ivy Gold interior -Delivered to Courtesy Chevrolet, Los Angeles, CA 2013 Corvette Grand Sport 60th Anniversary Edition Arctic White/Diamond Blue interior -Delivered to Bill Jacobs Chevrolet, Joliet, IL NCRS#66003 “One test result is worth one thousand expert opinions”—Werner Von Braun Dykstra Motorsports |
#300
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Yeah I think if you plan to drive this car a bunch I'd lean towards pulling the engine and checking the bears since some metal has run through it.
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