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  #71  
Old 11-06-2022, 02:40 PM
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NOS rear diff in place and ready for winter!
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  #72  
Old 11-07-2022, 09:50 PM
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I got the engine oil sample results today and everything looks good for 500 miles and 5 years of use.

Tomorrow I'm dropping off the 3.54 rear differential at my favorite old-time machine shop to refresh. Hopefully they can reuse the 3.54 gear set, otherwise I'll have him revert it back to the origina 3.07 gear set I saved. Always helps to have a spare handy.
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  #73  
Old 11-13-2022, 11:40 PM
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At least for the moment I have my wall art nice and clean and ready to hang up. It has been soaking in Purple Stuff for the past 5 days. It cleaned up nicely. Awaiting the report from the machine shop next week.
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Last edited by njsteve; 11-13-2022 at 11:42 PM.
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  #74  
Old 11-16-2022, 08:53 PM
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The machine shop called me today. He pulled apart the diff and found that pinion bearing race had some marks in it.

He asked if I used synthetic diff fluid and I said yes.
He then asked if the car sat a long time without driving. I said yes.
He said that was the problem.

In his decades of experience, synthetic differential fluids don't have a good fluid film thickness for long term storage like traditional fluids have. He said the races got abrasions from lack of lubrication and the rollers basically made corrosion divots in the races. He also said the synthetic diff fluids seem to attract moisture more than traditional fluids. That would explain the test results showing the presence of water in the fluid.

So he will replace all the bearings and seals and set the existing 3.54 gears back up. (which he said were fine and just need the depth adjusted a little.)

Last edited by njsteve; 11-16-2022 at 11:27 PM.
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  #75  
Old 11-29-2022, 08:09 PM
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Picked up the 3.54 diff today. Total cost was around $750. More than half of that was the bearing kit and seals.

Looks like Blackstone was right on the money. It was devouring the bearing rollers in the main pinion bearing, which was contaminating the fluid with iron.

That was also the "tinkling" sound I heard. The rollers in the main pinion bearing were probably around 75% of the size they should have been. And all the races were showing severe brinelling. The main pinion bearing race was bad enough that you could catch your fingernail in the divot at the 12 o'clock position in the photo.
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Last edited by njsteve; 11-29-2022 at 08:25 PM.
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  #76  
Old 11-29-2022, 08:12 PM
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Here's the main pinion bearing. Notice how high the roller is in the first photo. And then how low it drops in the second. Now compare them to the third photo next to the low mileage pinion. You can see how worn the rollers are on the bad bearing compared to the low mileage bearing on the right.

That was the "tinkling" I could hear when I rotated the yoke and heard the roller drop to the other side of the cage slot. The damn thing is so loose it sounds like a tamborine.
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Last edited by njsteve; 11-29-2022 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 11-29-2022, 08:15 PM
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And the shiny, clean diff with the 3.54 gears all reset and ready to go.
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  #78  
Old 12-02-2022, 11:57 PM
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I contacted the techs at Blackstone to send them some photos. They always appreciate the feedback when their analysis is confirmed with real-time photos/data. They were quite excited to see the reason behind the fluid's iron contamination.
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  #79  
Old 12-06-2022, 08:57 PM
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$50 clutch slave cylinder hack for the unobtainable 1992-2010 factory part and LUK LSC134

After seeing some mention on facebook about a workaround for the unobtainable clutch slave cylinder for 1992 to 2010 Vipers, I decided to test out out the rumor. And it is absolutely true.

The $50 Luk LSC002B is EXACTLY the same unit as the no-longer-available $300+ Luk LSC134 or the double that price, equally unavailable Dodge factory replacement part. Same base, same height, same inner diameter, same shaft diameter, same throwout bearing.

The only difference is the bleeder and the pressure fitting.

All you have to do is tap out the roll pin that secures the pressure fittings on your original slave cylinder and the new LSC002B, and then swap them, along with the rubber seal. I ended up reusing the rubber seal from my original slave cylinder as the pressure fitting flt tighter with it than the new seal on the shorter fitting. Then tap the roll pin back in. You then swap out the original longer bleeder for the short one on the LSC002B, or use as most people do, install an aftermarket remote bleeder line for easier bleeding.

Here are some camparison photos of my original 1992 vintage slave cylinder and bearing, and the new LSC002B in the middle and a Sachs SO536/SH6151 (a relabled LUK LSC134 under a different brand name).

BTW, the LUK LSC002B is a Ford/Mercury application. For example, it fits the 1989 Thunderbird with a V6 and manual transmission.
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Last edited by njsteve; 12-06-2022 at 11:20 PM.
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  #80  
Old 05-27-2023, 11:20 PM
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Well I finally installed the rebuilt 3.54 rear differential today. It took a leisurely three hours with water/food breaks in between. Boy those diffs are getting heavy or I'm losing my ability to bench press underneath a car.

I think it's time to finally get myself a four post lift so i can get off the ground when working on these things.

After the install, the boy and I went for some Italian ice at the local Rita's. And of course forgot that this damn 30 year old relic doesn't have any cup holders. (First World Problems)

Not a sound from the rebuilt rear. Not that you could hear anything anyway with the open side exhaust blasting in your ears. But it was smooth sailing anyway.

He said he wants us to bring the Viper to the next cars and coffee event. He said there were too many Hellcats there last time and we didn't stick out enough. LOL

Last edited by njsteve; 05-27-2023 at 11:23 PM.
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