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#151
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Man...the car is sure coming along now, and the pace has really picked up quite a bit. Love how you've done up the front subframe! Your attention to detail is looking spot on to me Chas.
Keep at it buddy.
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. |
The Following User Says Thank You to NorCam For This Useful Post: | ||
Chuck_Burg (03-30-2021) |
#152
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Thanks Graeme!
I had a couple hiccups. As previously mentioned, I bought my rear end from Moser back in December. Went to install the axles and noticed we had to machine the backing plate to fit the larger 35 spline axles, no problem my father in law has a lathe and made quick work of them. Then I went to install the axles and found them to very very tight, well actually they were bottoming out against the Wavetrac. I called Moser and they accessed the blue prints to my build... pretty neat they save those files. The guy on the phone determined the bearing retainers were pressed 1/4" off of what the plans call for causing the axles to bottom out. No problem, I sent them both axles and they corrected the issue and installed new bearings. Another "issue" with the rear end is with the perches. The perches have 1/2" holes for the U bolts, which is great however the holes aren't exactly in the right spot. Looks like Moser drills the holes in the steel then puts them in a press to shape the perches. This results in the holes being too close to the edges of the perch, not in the center, which causes misalignment with the J bolts for the traction bars. I had to clearance the holes a bit to allow for proper J bolt alignment and jam nut installation. |
#153
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You can see how the J bolts weren't sitting square...
I know these traction bars aren't real Lakewoods. I have a set a Lakewoods and I'm not thrilled with their condition. I believe these are Moroso (Competition Engineering) pieces but are very similar to the Lakewoods. I would like some real deal perfect condition competition J Bolt style Lakewoods but these were a fair price and they're in great shape! We also got the subframe installed along with the front calipers after I sourced the correct hard lines for them. We also installed a new gas tank with the original tank straps. I painted them black and intentionally applied the paint thick with some runs as I understand they were originally dipped in black paint. I didn't realize the tank I ordered was stainless steel but I actually like it, I think it'll get a little duller as time goes on. |
The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to Chuck_Burg For This Useful Post: | ||
big gear head (03-31-2021), dykstra (04-02-2021), NorCam (04-01-2021), olredalert (03-31-2021), PeteLeathersac (03-31-2021), Xplantdad (03-30-2021) |
#154
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As usual, it's ALL looking great. I noticed in going back over the last few pages that your heater core looks questionable. Are you having it pressure tested and cleaned before install ?
The bolt holes off center in the perches was a GM thing. I ran into the same issue on an '80 Trans Am at work a couple months ago. I can't turn the upper nuts to adjust the tension of the bottom nuts without taking them out of the perch and guessing how much to move them down. Time consuming PITA and it's waiting to get on a drive on lift to tighten the spring ends and set the snubber height under full weight.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
The Following User Says Thank You to Too Many Projects For This Useful Post: | ||
Chuck_Burg (03-30-2021) |
#155
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Good observation! The heater core is no good for me because I'm stuffing a Big Block in here. Oddly enough I think the heater core is dated October of 66 and the car was built in September so maybe it was a warranty replacement. It is a Harrison. I think it is leaking, I won't be using it, if someone wants it, it's theirs.
That all being said I have a new Big Block heater core, and a new engine compartment heater box. The original date coded blower motor works perfectly so I repainted it and soaked the cage in Evaporust then Boeshield to help prevent future rust. I restored the under dash heater box and haven't posted pictures yet. I am waiting for the new fire wall insulation pad to come before I reinstall it all. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Chuck_Burg For This Useful Post: | ||
Too Many Projects (03-31-2021), Xplantdad (03-31-2021) |
#156
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I was a Moser dealer for 15 years. I know exactly what you are talking about with those spring perches. There are better quality perches, but when you buy the rear end from Moser you don't get a choice. Tom's Differentials sells a much better perch if you ever need a set for something else. The hole in the backing plate needs to be bored to 3.155 inches so that the bearing can pass through it.
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Freddie 1969 Camaro RS/SS396 (427) 4 speed |
The Following User Says Thank You to big gear head For This Useful Post: | ||
Chuck_Burg (03-31-2021) |
#157
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Exactly, as it hasn’t bolt in axles with ford sized bearings. I opted for Timken bearings.
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#158
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I just love this build. You guys are going to force me to follow suit!!
Tim |
The Following User Says Thank You to napa68 For This Useful Post: | ||
Chuck_Burg (04-01-2021) |
#159
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Thanks! It's been really fun. This car is a neat blend of restored but original floors and undercarriage.... Really looks cool underneath this car, well preserved!
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#160
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Wow - great project, well done.
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The Following User Says Thank You to RPOLS3 For This Useful Post: | ||
Chuck_Burg (04-09-2021) |
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