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#1
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The real question is what ignition are you gonna run?
It would be cool to find a set of all metal 1850's with matching patina if you can |
#2
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The 600's sound good to me, how do I decipher the 'all metal' versions?
Ignition? I'm open on that one too. Was thinking of using a Mallory Unilite w/ a Blaster coil. I know that stuff is newer, but I know the least about ignition so I wanted to ensure the most reliability in that area. But, open to vintage suggestions here too.
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#3
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From what I know, there is a dash and a number after the part number for every time there was a change in the carb.
In other words 1850 would be a first edition, 1850-1 would be second edition, etc. I can't say for sure what -numbers indicate what year span, but I'm sure someone here or at Holley can tell you. The 600's I'm going to use are 1850-1. They are all metal with the good metal floats. Everyone is pretty much right about the carbs., 660's are just about made for wide open only and very difficult to make work well for the street.
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It's not the critic that counts, not the man who points out how the strong man stumbled or whether the doer of deeds could have done them better... |
#4
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hemicolt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">From what I know, there is a dash and a number after the part number for every time there was a change in the carb.
In other words 1850 would be a first edition, 1850-1 would be second edition, etc. I can't say for sure what -numbers indicate what year span, but I'm sure someone here or at Holley can tell you. The 600's I'm going to use are 1850-1. They are all metal with the good metal floats. Everyone is pretty much right about the carbs., 660's are just about made for wide open only and very difficult to make work well for the street. </div></div> Ok, so I should be looking for 1850's, or 1850-1's, with vacuum secondaries. What about choke? Are the 1850 series all manual choke units? Also, I see some ad's that say '...not dual quad carbs...', what does that mean? Can't you just mount 2 of these 1850 units and connect them together with the throttle linkage and fuel lines? I'm not trying to make a masterpiece out of it, but want it to be functional and reasonably period correct.
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#5
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When you get to a certain model, the vac. secondary housing is plastic. I would try to stay with the earlier design. Idle, intermediate and high side air bleeds are not adjustable, so I can't say you need to be looking for a specific carb. I imagine you are going to rebuild any used carb. you get, so as long as they physically match, you can get them dialed in to match from a tuning stand point. And what I mean by that is squirter size and squirter cam profile, jets, etc.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hemicolt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">From what I know, there is a dash and a number after the part number for every time there was a change in the carb. In other words 1850 would be a first edition, 1850-1 would be second edition, etc. I can't say for sure what -numbers indicate what year span, but I'm sure someone here or at Holley can tell you. The 600's I'm going to use are 1850-1. They are all metal with the good metal floats. Everyone is pretty much right about the carbs., 660's are just about made for wide open only and very difficult to make work well for the street. </div></div> Ok, so I should be looking for 1850's, or 1850-1's, with vacuum secondaries. What about choke? Are the 1850 series all manual choke units? Also, I see some ad's that say '...not dual quad carbs...', what does that mean? Can't you just mount 2 of these 1850 units and connect them together with the throttle linkage and fuel lines? I'm not trying to make a masterpiece out of it, but want it to be functional and reasonably period correct. </div></div>
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It's not the critic that counts, not the man who points out how the strong man stumbled or whether the doer of deeds could have done them better... |
#6
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The 600's sound good to me, how do I decipher the 'all metal' versions?
Ignition? I'm open on that one too. Was thinking of using a Mallory Unilite w/ a Blaster coil. I know that stuff is newer, but I know the least about ignition so I wanted to ensure the most reliability in that area. But, open to vintage suggestions here too. </div></div> Just use the tried and true MSD 6AL and hide it behind the glove box inside the car. WE have never had any luck with the Uni-lite stuff.
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'58 Apache pick up restomodding with twin turbo 522 '78 Z28 4sp being restored '78 Z28 32,000 survivor, Og Yellow paint, AC. '70 W30 convert TRIBUTE '70 CANADIAN Nova SS396 L78 Pro Street '69 CANADIAN Nova SS 396/350 hp '67 CANADIAN Nova SS 427 10 sec. driver '66 CANADIAN Nova SS Race Car '69 FIREBIRD Tubbed Racecar '61 CANADIAN Pontiac Bubble top 409+/4sp (SOLD) '31 ALL STEEL Chevy P.U. GONE (EX-WIFES NOW) |
#7
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Funny, no one on here has mentioned Carter/Edelbrock carbs? For more :street" orientated driving they would be my first choice as we have had a number of them and worked very well and wasn't that hard to set-up.
On my ZL-1 deal I'm going twin throttle bodies and EFI so I can go from the TR2-X to Holley strip Dom. intake to 3933198 and just put in a different program. Even looking at "stacked" injection with the EFI conversion just to play with.
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'58 Apache pick up restomodding with twin turbo 522 '78 Z28 4sp being restored '78 Z28 32,000 survivor, Og Yellow paint, AC. '70 W30 convert TRIBUTE '70 CANADIAN Nova SS396 L78 Pro Street '69 CANADIAN Nova SS 396/350 hp '67 CANADIAN Nova SS 427 10 sec. driver '66 CANADIAN Nova SS Race Car '69 FIREBIRD Tubbed Racecar '61 CANADIAN Pontiac Bubble top 409+/4sp (SOLD) '31 ALL STEEL Chevy P.U. GONE (EX-WIFES NOW) |
#8
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Have you looked at the new MSD Atomic efi?
http://www.atomicefi.com/ Looks like it may be easy to hide under a dropped base air cleaner. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EZ Nova</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Funny, no one on here has mentioned Carter/Edelbrock carbs? For more :street" orientated driving they would be my first choice as we have had a number of them and worked very well and wasn't that hard to set-up. On my ZL-1 deal I'm going twin throttle bodies and EFI so I can go from the TR2-X to Holley strip Dom. intake to 3933198 and just put in a different program. Even looking at "stacked" injection with the EFI conversion just to play with. </div></div>
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It's not the critic that counts, not the man who points out how the strong man stumbled or whether the doer of deeds could have done them better... |
#9
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My ZL-1 uses thermoquads.
My intake is a 1969-70 tunnel ram. I am looking for a quad top for my weiand. Currently I use a Holley top with a holley to quad spacer. I take these carbs any day.
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Jake is my grandson!! |
#10
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"Just use the tried and true MSD 6AL and hide it behind the glove box inside the car. WE have never had any luck with the Uni-lite stuff."
A big Plus 1 on that man. When I had my speed shops in the seventies, we were pretty much overwhelmed with warranty claims on the Unilite stuff. So much so, we tried not to sell it, because all it did was to create an unhappy customer. Wayne |
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