1966 Corvette L72 Light Refresh

[TimG]

Nice cool day up North for a test drive. You can check the heater.

[napa68]

The plug wires made a noticeable improvement. The engine picked up 100 RPM with that change alone. Of course, the difference in the product is detectable. When I'm bored, I'll install new plug wires inside the braided sheath. That requires some time and patience. The original is the wire on the top......


And there she is.....just about finished. Ignition timing is set @12 degrees advanced @750rpm. That gives me 38 degrees all in. Topped is off with an NOS A212CW I had acquired recently


Next, I'll rebuild the master cylinder and put some more miles on before I switch to the knock off's. I want to get real familiar with the car before switching over to a wheel like the factory KO's. That way I have a real solid baseline in order to detect if there is not something right with the KO installation. I had one of those come off when I was about 21 years old. You could say that gets a little rough on the bodywork.

[67since67]

Originally Posted by napa68

When I'm bored, I'll install new plug wires inside the braided sheath. That requires some time and patience.

So...tomorrow???

[Z282NV]

Such a beautiful Vette. Can't wait to see it with original KO's. Keep the pictures coming. Thx.

[big gear head]

I have a friend who had a KO come off of his car. Messed it up pretty bad.

[napa68]

Originally Posted by big gear head

I have a friend who had a KO come off of his car. Messed it up pretty bad.

Yeah......there are plenty of stories as such. Having said that, there is a right way and a wrong way to go about these wheels. IMO a big part is finding wheels and adapters that have not suffered any trauma. The pins on the adapters and holes on the wheels, can get wallowed out. The large holes are for the lug nuts to secure the adapter to the rotor (drum) and the small holes are for the pins. I looked at 4 different sets, before buying the wheels from Mike. These were a really nice set.



Furthermore, the wheel needs to sit flush to the adapter (like any wheel should). It is also key that the adapters are on the correct way. There is a left and right side and it makes a difference.


Lastly, I was given the advice years ago to use the "Mutha Thumpr" lead hammer. This is what all of the Cobra guys use.
https://performanceunlimited.com/cob...ls/hammer.html


Many people try with a dead blow, but it just does not yield the same results. I'll also utilize my lovely assistant (Tracey) to sit in the car, with the brakes applied and car in the air, when delivering the final blows. Often swinging like Babe Ruth. The tone of the contact changes when the wheel is properly seated. I'll then make a discreet mark with a Sharpie on the spinner / cone so I can easily peek at the wheel.


Since adopting these practices, I have had no issues with these wheels. Regardless of everything I just laid out, I have the luxury these days of extra wheels and tires, as well as a tire changer to go about all of this. As I mentioned, I'm going to get familiar with the nuances of the car before changing to the KO's.

At the risk of sounding like a know it all, there are some principles here that should be utilized with the conventional 4/5 lug wheels as well. Throughout my career in the parts business, I saw more than my fair share of wheels becoming loose or coming off at a variety of customers. Wheel damage, corrosion, proper engagement of the lug nut to the wheel, improper use of an impact gun, torque sticks, etc. are all contributing issues for failure.

I gotta admit, I carry a bit of paranoia when installing / reinstalling wheels and tires. An accurate torque wrench is your friend. I also like to retorque the wheels after about 100 miles. I'll step off the soap box now

Please accept my apologies if my post here sounds a bit condescending. I'm sure many of you already know much of what I have written. Perhaps even have more to add? (Please do). I feel there is value in revisiting a subject that get taken for granted in the hobby. The thread Steve started some time ago about tires dates is the first thing that comes to mind.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by napa68

Please accept my apologies if my post here sounds a bit condescending. I'm sure many of you already know much of what I have written. Perhaps even have more to add? (Please do). I feel there is value in revisiting a subject that get taken for granted in the hobby.

I've been a fan of knockoffs for as long as I can remember - and this is the first time I've given any thought to how they are held on!

K

[TimG]

Those are all great percautions, Tim. The lead hammer and applying the final blows with the tire off the ground are important as is marking the cone and spinner. I also believe they have longer lug nuts available for the KO wheels so there is more contact area.

I've had lots of experience with Halibrand KO wheels and I love to wire them, but we can't do that with Corvette wheels.

[67since67]

Originally Posted by TimG

I also believe they have longer lug nuts available for the KO wheels so there is more contact area.

Yes Tim, the KO's did specify longer lug nuts. I believe I sourced them from the dealer way back when. I never had any come loose but I did re-torque them periodically.

Never used it, but didn't someone market a tool/fixture that slipped over the spinner to torque the spinner without striking the spinner "wings"?

[napa68]

Originally Posted by 67since67

but didn't someone market a tool/fixture that slipped over the spinner to torque the spinner without striking the spinner "wings"?

They did and I had one of those tools. IMO, you just do not get the torque like one would with a lead hammer.