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#41
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orig. muncie shifter...correct rods? how do they go?
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#42
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orig. muncie shifter...correct rods? how do they go? [/ QUOTE ] Well - keeping with your day two theme, the muncie shifter would go..........................................in the trash!! ![]()
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Sam... ![]() |
#43
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I don't know which shifter is best for road racing, but if the tunnel is already been cut, I would lean strongly towards a supershifter!
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#44
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orig. muncie shifter...correct rods? how do they go? [/ QUOTE ] On the shelf ![]()
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#45
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what they said, I am hard core '67 I dont even run one even in the good car, run a hurst setup and transfer a Muncie handle to it if it has to look stock, they jam just looking at them, go root through your stuff and put a comp plus in it, especially since the tunnel is prepped for the good one that will land right next to your leg, if your going to be racing it much like you say your gonna need it right there and precise.
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#46
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I have these original 15x8 wheels that I really hope to use.....but, does anyone know if they will fit without flaring the fenders??? This is where I need some advice...What tires are available ?? I'd rather have treads, but maybe some type of cheater slicks? Do they make such a thing for the front and rear in a road course tire?? Has anyone built a car with these wheels that can give some advice??? Thankssssss [/ QUOTE ] You can't use those wheels. I'll take them off your hands. Just kidding of course. I really like those wheels. I remember a buddy in high school who ran 15x8 on the back of his 68 Z, but had to go to a 15X7 in the front, to keep from rubbing. |
#47
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Hey Lynn,
I really love these wheels too. These are the nicest 'real' original magnesium minilites I have ever seen. They do not even have a scratch or nick in any of the rims. I am really bummin' that they won't fit in the front of my Z. ![]() Im up in the air now. I guess I need to buy some new 15x 7's...and hope they do not rub !! On another note... ![]() ...You guys almost have me convinced on the shifter. ![]() The swapmeet season is arriving so I may be doing some shopping soon. I have a short list !!! ![]() ..and a shorter bank account ![]() ![]() I'll probably sell off some of the 'extra' parts I have once the car gets going together... ..any idea what real original 15 x 8 minilites are worth ? |
#48
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![]() Good news: I have the 67 Frame and a-arms in primer and ready to paint...Thank goodness the body mount holes were mint shape. But, the frame had it's share of dings and the such. After restoring 2 subframes, I now realize how much damage I did all those years jamming the jack under the front of the frame of all my old cars. The bad news: I am out of frame paint. Now, I am at a standstill until I get the correct paint. What brand paint do you recommend for the frame/ A-arms and undercarriage/floors on a 67-69 Camaro? I am going to assemble the 67 Z frame and the 69 subframe at the same time since I have all the parts ready. The 69 needs to be very correct as I am doing an original type restoration on that car. I was looking at the Eastwood Chassis Black in quarts...I would like to do it correct once if possible...aren't the A-arms supposed to be more glossy than the sub-frame? Also for the floorboard/ undercarriage? Would that be different also? I will start a thread on this topic separate also. Thanks, Max |
#49
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I assume I will have to tear apart the Smokey MO 302 motor before fire up. From what I remember/heard, Smokey rebuilt all his motors prior to his big auction. I believe that was in 1991, correct? (does anyone know details of this?) So my motor is more than 40 years old and best case has been together for 20 years atleast. I assume a teardown minimum as a check would be required. Any suggestions how far I should go on a teardown/rebuild ? What I should check for..and what I should do before reassembly/ fire-up? Should I replace any parts? gaskets? etc?
Thanks for suggestions/ideas... |
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