1967 ss/rs resto/mod

[scuncio]

Nice work, are you leaving the door jamb area or replacing that too?

[Too Many Projects]

The whole quarter will come off.
Not certain how far I will go back into the jam. That depends on where the previous section is brazed on. Ideally, I'd like to NOT have to drill out all the spot welds holding the q-p to the inner structure of the jam, but it will be what it is when I get there.
I need to determine why this mis-match exists too. May need to pull the jam pillar out.

[Mr70]

Thanks for sharing all this,incredible attention to Detail.

[Too Many Projects]

Update has been a long time coming, but I changed channels along the way.
The AMD quarter did not fit near as well as I was led to believe and I went looking for an NOS. TravlnZ28 came to the rescue with a nice one and I drove to his place in TN to bring it home without the shipping gorillas getting a chance to destroy it.
Here is a pic of the door gap with the AMD. It is way too wide and the lazy curved edge didn't help either. The seam at the extension panel was the same, wide, lazy bend and the lip at the trunk lid would require cutting, repositioning and welding to look right.





The NOS door gap, WAAAAAY better and once I lift the door at the front, it will be even top to bottom...





Pic of the seam at extension panel, super nice. Unfortunately, I need to replace that too and the bends on the repro are lazy and the corner is rounded, not pointed as seen on the original. That will take work to correct, but I'm considering brushing up on my decades old brazing skills and using that to build up the corner.





Once I had established that I was MUCH happier with this piece, I used drill screws to hold the door edge in place and inserted the reinforcement bracket inside the panel. I had used drill screws to hold that in place while I drilled out the spot welds, so I was able to get that back in the correct location.






I then used 3 drill screws thru the skin to hold it tight to the brace and removed the quarter.







Once I had it off, I used a silver marker to color in the spot weld drill holes and sanded the EDP off for welding.








Then it got welded to the quarter. NOT pretty welds. The brace gauge is much thicker than the skin and with the galvanized coating, made the welds get too hot to run a full circle without stopping.





On the skin side. I do have some overheat high spots and the 3 drill screw holes to knock down, but it will be fine with a skim to blend after that. I probably should have tried to set up my spot welder for this, but that can take a LONG time of experimenting.

[Too Many Projects]

Just yesterday, a friend in the local Chevelle Club asked when I was going to get back on the Camaro. I told him soon, as I thought it had been 7 months since I last worked on it. Wow, When I found this thread and opened it, May 17...7 months to the day.
Anyway, I was stalled out on this issue with the right inner wheel house to trunk floor mis-match. I've run into this on every floor I've done, but not this much of a gap. I could pull the inner to the floor, but it was barely touching, so I found the scrap of left inner house I had kept and it had the right curvature and incline to match the patch I needed nearly perfectly.

















I started the welding in the corner and was able to clamp the 3 pieces pretty tight underneath, but the top of the patch wanted to stick out away from the house. I didn't want to use a bunch of drill screws to hold it and then have to weld them up, so after welding 3-4 plug holes I quickly reached in while the metal was hot and tapped the patch flat. Dang, I love it when an idea works.





Until it got forward of the curve and widened out for the rust cut out I had to hold tight. I finally came up with 2 old rotors we had recently removed from my son's Malibu to provide enough weight to hold the panels tight.








After welding













1 more rust out patch to make and weld in.





I used another piece of the same wheel house to donate that too.










All knocked down and cleaned up. And, yes, I have a LOT more old undercoating to remove with the crud thug...








One last pic...the NOS gas cap I got from Anthony a few months back...

[1967 4K]

How many years have you been doing this type work?

[Too Many Projects]

About 13. I bought a 1967 GTO basket case, and then a mig welder, plasma cutter, rotisserie, metal working tools, 2 more tool boxes...

[Too Many Projects]

I did start back on this a month ago and took all the sheet metal off to prep it. About that time, I was in communication with Tony, in Tulsa, about an NOS tail panel. We came to an agreement and I drove down this week and retrieved it. 1407 miles in 30 hours.
Original box looks like they pulled it out of the Titanic, but the panel is perfect..
Thanks Tony

[Pro Stock John]

Looks great!

[SuperNovaSS]

I have to ask, with 30 hours of travel plus fuel, why don’t you trust a shipper like UPS with double boxing and insurance? In my experience, that would be 100-200. Even at $10 an hour for labor you are at $300 plus fuel cost. You are worth a lot more than $10 an hour! I think that less than minimum wage now.

Jason