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#1
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Cheese and Rice man!!
You are blowing my mind!!!! Ryan W31/VW
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold 1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold 1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31 |
#2
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CROSSMEMBER!!!
cheers Dave |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to A12pilot For This Useful Post: | ||
67 Nova Boy (11-16-2023), markinnaples (06-27-2022) |
#3
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Rare BMW that hasn't left a garage for 43 years will go to auction
https://www.msn.com/en-us/news/world...a57262f2517ed3 |
#4
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I have spoken with this owner. His other car is the one I got all my measurements from.
![]() Very small world, this 507 planet! Cheers Dave |
The Following User Says Thank You to A12pilot For This Useful Post: | ||
Lee Stewart (06-25-2022) |
#5
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Squares? Check. Indigimous levels? Check. Straight edges, micrometers, and gravity compensators? Check-a-Roo!!! Welp, time to weld up some stuff and see if it resembles a front end.
![]() Starting off reading the instructions would be a great idea. But last I checked, that never helped any guy at any point in human existence. That comes right next to asking for directions when lost. Pfflllpp….you tell me when either one of those things actually helped out a problem. Let’s see. This should go here, but why is that angled? Does it angle backwards or frontways? Does the long thingy point backwards? This goes topwise, right? OK, OK, maybe just to set a good example for the lesser know’d people, lemme just bust out this paper packet here….. So after reading the instructions ten times and mocking things up that equal amount of times or more, I have a front end! I will say that the instructions were really detailed but did leave out a few things. There are way more measurements than I had anticipated and I’m glad I did things three, four, five times to make sure I was on the right track. Get it? Track? Front end? I know…..stupid. ![]() Remember, I’m starting from nothing so my front end frame rails aren’t anything but 2x4 stock. This will be a subframe that will be connected to the side rails, seamlessly I tells ya, forming the complete frame. So I set the measurements based off an inner frame rail dimension of 26-1/4” and a inflated tire size of 27-3/4" There’s a series of calculations that determine the notch size, distance, and spacing front to back on the rails. I set the axle centerline based on a distance from the front of the rails rearward. The crossmember gets placed rearward from the centerline which is marked on the rails. It’s a simple mathematical formula that I had jotted down in my notes shown here for thoughts who are curious…. ![]() Once level and square, I tacked it in place. Next comes placement under the front sheet metal. Using jacks, levels and the centerline marked on the fenders, I positioned the subframe in positioned and aligned it as close as I could. It didn’t have to be 100% accurate in placement since I don’t have it welded up to the main rails yet. But it needs to be square and level. But having it in the right space is a confidence booster for when I fit the wheels up and they actually fall in the wheel wells. Once that was all I placed correctly I then needed to tack the top hats on. It’s a simple process, really: 1. Measure 9/16th down from the outermost inner point of the centerline of the forward point of the coil over mount. 2. Using an angle indicator, scribe a line 3.27 degrees aftward from the previously described point. 3. Triangulate this with a point on the opposite side on the backend portion of the rearward top hat front shock inner mount. ![]() So after that simple calculation, a few tack welds and bingo….instant front end!!!! The wheels fit in the wells exactly as planned and everything is square and true. I’m extremely happy so far. Hopefully I can keep the momentum going for the rear. That’s going to require a whole other set of measurements along triangulatory longitudinal perpendicularousness. ![]() ![]() Cheers Dave |
The Following 11 Users Say Thank You to A12pilot For This Useful Post: | ||
67 Nova Boy (11-16-2023), big gear head (06-26-2022), carnut4life (06-26-2022), Dave Rifkin (06-26-2022), dykstra (06-27-2022), Hawkeye (06-26-2022), L78_Nova (06-27-2022), markinnaples (06-27-2022), olredalert (06-26-2022), Tenney (06-26-2022), Woj (06-26-2022) |
#6
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Dave, I can see why you were excited about that front end kit. It looks to be perfect for this build. Keep up the good work!
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#7
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Thanks, Phil. Yes, it bolted up nicely. On the final trim out I’ll be making it look more factory without shiney polished parts and such. Heck, I may even add inspection marks!!
![]() ![]() ![]() I’m hoping the rear ships out this week. More to come… Cheers ![]() Dave |
#8
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Wow. Next level stuff for sure. Makes the restoration work you've done look easy.
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#9
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Thanks, Jake!
![]() ![]() Up this week will be front frame to mid section joinification and floor pannous creatous! ![]() ![]() Cheers Dave |
The Following User Says Thank You to A12pilot For This Useful Post: | ||
Xplantdad (06-27-2022) |
#10
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1968 Camaro Ex-ISCA Show Car - Sold ![]() On The Lookout For My Next Classic... John 10:30 |
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