Grandfather's 68 SS Camaro.

[napa68]

Originally Posted by RALLY

RAT540 Blog-Engineer talking about Motor Oil.

Yeah, the guy in the video does NOT seem as insanely stupid as most people are on Automotive Forums and Bozoistheoilguy Forum. But, like them, he doesn’t even know, what he doesn’t know. So, he just assumes he has to use OEM products. He has absolutely no clue that OEM lubricating oils are typically among the worst performers available. No surprise there since a lot of people are just like him.

People like him and others, are NOT qualified and experienced Degreed Mechanical Engineers. They have NOTHING to back-up and prove what they say. They just spout off what they “assume” is correct.

On the other hand, I back-up and prove EVERYTHING I post here in my Blog, with hard Engineering Test Data, that comes directly from the Science of the Physics and Chemistry involved in my proprietary testing. No one can argue with Science, because Science is ALWAYS CORRECT. Therefore, my test results that I share with my readers, EXACTLY MATCH “Real World” experience.

Plus, here in my Blog, in my recommendations, I always emphasize what “IS BEST” for our vehicles, while everyone else is happy with whatever is “good enough” to get by with.

At the end of the day, people can embrace my Engineering Test Data, which is the ONLY reliable and accurate information available anywhere.

Or people can ignore my Engineering Test Data and continue to guess how various lubricating oils perform, with nothing to go on other than Oil Company FALSE Advertising and FRAUDULENT Claims.

I do not sell anything, so it does not matter to me what people decide. The smart people will make use of my Test Data for their own benefit.

The idiots will ignore my Test Data and continue to struggle. So, that is their loss, not mine.

Take care,

540 RAT

I am going to go out on a limb in this post. The OP is young and has inherited a car(s) from his Grandfather. He obviously is struggling to get his head wrapped around the mechanical aspects of an older car, to say nothing for a young man's budget, and the loss of a loved one.

The forum community has taken an interest in his questions and hurdles. That is what this, and other forums are all about. I take my hat off to L E E to reach out in the capacity that he has. Others have offered solid advice, along with sympathy to the OP's circumstance.

Then, the thread gets hijacked. As a result, we get posts like this. IMHO, start another thread RALLY. If you want to profess your knowledge to the forum (perhaps without the condescending tone)........have at it.

It is my opinion the OP and the members who have spent the time to help, deserve better than your post would suggest.

[JRC99]

Today would have been Pappaw's 72nd birthday. I'm not sure how much I saw him wear them, but the two Dorman hats he had were always part of my mental image of him. So one sits in the Camaro and one sits in the Mustang at all times.

The old intake bolts were so cruddy they're never going back on the car. I will probably order a set soon so I can pull the engine via carb lift plate. One of his genius decisions when building the garage was an iron beam across the ceiling with a chain setup specifically for pulling engines so I already have a cherry picker set up.

[RALLY]

Iron beams been popular for years. Have one myself.

[JRC99]

Originally Posted by RALLY

Iron beams been popular for years. Have one myself.

Doesn't surprise me. But dad's garage doesn't have one so to me it was still a neat idea I'd not seen, y'know?

[Too Many Projects]

Wish him a happy birthday from us too. Sorry he is gone from your life. Only 72, dang, he went way too early. He is only 7 months older than me...

[JRC99]

Merry Christmas y'all!

Didn't get any Camaro parts this year (did get a buffer I can use on it though) but I've been slowly prepping to pull the engine. First time I've ever seen it without a hood.

A(nother) good friend of mine is coming up next week and offered to help pull it. If memory serves (and I'll obviously double check before yanking on it with the chain), I have to unbolt it from the torque converter and bellhousing, remove the starter and battery cables, remove the oil PSI sender, remove the fuel line from the pump to the tank, unbolt the headers (I may pull them out entirely and paint em white- I would coat them but you're not supposed to break in an engine with them freshly coated from what I remember. That'll be a project for another winter), motor mounts, out. Rad hoses are off, alternator wiring is off, heater hoses unhooked, and distributor and wiring for it unhooked and pulled already. I'm sure there's more but like I said I'll go over everything before pulling it.

Oh, I still have to bolt the intake back on first too lol. It's just resting on it.

I'm still holding foolish hope that I can do this *relatively* inexpensive in terms of maybe just rings and bearings and then put the real money in the cam and valve train.

[Too Many Projects]

Merry Christmas.
You have a good start, but remove the radiator next and the long valve cover bolts near the brake booster for tipping/lifting the engine over the front crossmember. When leaving the trans in, I use a floor jack with a large piece of 2x6 under the pan and lift with the engine until it is almost touching the firewall. That gives you a little more wiggle room to separate the engine and trans. There are 2 alignment pins between them, so they need to separate about 1/2-3/4 inch to get the engine free from the bellhousing.
You may want to use baling wire to hold the headers away from the heads while lifting. Removing them with the engine in requires the car to be about 18" off the floor. Leave the collectors on, but the 3 bolts loose so the header can move over, but not fall on the floor.
Once the engine is out, have/find a piece of rebar/pipe/broom handle and cut it to span the frame rails right in front of the trans. Have 2 long bolts, 3-4" and insert them in the bellhousing holes just above the rod to set the trans down on. You can then remove the jack and push the car back out of the way to work.

[JRC99]

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects

Merry Christmas.
You have a good start, but remove the radiator next and the long valve cover bolts near the brake booster for tipping/lifting the engine over the front crossmember. When leaving the trans in, I use a floor jack with a large piece of 2x6 under the pan and lift with the engine until it is almost touching the firewall. That gives you a little more wiggle room to separate the engine and trans. There are 2 alignment pins between them, so they need to separate about 1/2-3/4 inch to get the engine free from the bellhousing.
You may want to use baling wire to hold the headers away from the heads while lifting. Removing them with the engine in requires the car to be about 18" off the floor. Leave the collectors on, but the 3 bolts loose so the header can move over, but not fall on the floor.
Once the engine is out, have/find a piece of rebar/pipe/broom handle and cut it to span the frame rails right in front of the trans. Have 2 long bolts, 3-4" and insert them in the bellhousing holes just above the rod to set the trans down on. You can then remove the jack and push the car back out of the way to work.

Good advice, thank you! If I do pull the headers it's definitely after the engine is fully out. For now I'll just find a way to hold them away from the heads as you suggest

[BJCHEV396]

Good luck,hope things go smoothly for you.Keep us posted!

[R68GTO]

Good update, you'll get it!