New shop

[big gear head]

I took a week vacation this week to try to get the floor finished. I used Sikaflex 1A to fill the saw cuts in the floor. This is supposed to be chemical resistant and safe for gasoline and oil. I filled the cracks about 2 weeks ago. I spent a lot of time searching for a sealer that would be safe with gasoline and wouldn't chip or peel when using steel jack stands and steel wheels on a jack. I got a quote from Icon to seal the floor. The quote was for $18,000, which shocked me! I ended up buying ArmorPoxy Balistix SC sealer and I'm doing it myself. The kit from ArmorPoxy was $3000 and is safe with gasoline and brake cleaner. It also won't chip or peel. I started cleaning the floor Monday. Tuesday I rented a floor buffer and tried scuffing the concrete. That didn't work out too well, so Wednesday I used muriatic acid to etch the floor. I didn't get to work on it yesterday because it has to completely dry. Today I hope to get the primer on the floor and maybe tomorrow I can get the sealer on it. The floor has been a huge challenge, but I want to get it right. I was never happy with the floor in my old shop. I'm trying to get the floor done this week because I'm going to be down for about 2 months. I've got to get my left shoulder repaired and that's going to put a stop to all work until that is healed.

When the floor is finished I have to run the wires for the lights. I'm planning on using 8 foot LED lights. Once the wires are run I have to get the ceiling put up and install the lights. Then hopefully things will go a little quicker.

[Too Many Projects]

Sorry to hear about the shoulder, hoping that all goes as planned and you recover well.
The distances involved with forums like these is sometime frustrating. It would be challenging to organize a weekend to have some members come over and help you get more done.

[big gear head]

I appreciate the the thoughts Mitch. I'll get it done sometime. It would be nice to get heat in it before winter so that I can work comfortably when the shoulder is healed, but I'll figure that out when the time comes.
I should have gone to work yesterday and today because the floor still isn't dry enough to start putting the primer on.

[big gear head]

Getting the primer put down. That's a good woman right there. I'll have to take another day off next week to get the sealer done. Then on to wiring.

[Charley Lillard]

I had bad luck with what was guaranteed not to fail and prefer my bare floor. And of course the Company is out of business.

[COPO]

Charlie, did they diamond grind your floor and then clean with acid before the primer and top coating? Your floor looks like the concrete installer did a slick finish and if it's not diamond ground before the floor coating goes on then it will never adhere long term.

[Charley Lillard]

The coated floor was a new pour that had cured for a few months.They initially did a urethane coating that failed almost right away because the chemical company sent them the wrong chemicals. The chemical company bought them a diamond grinder to remove everything and then the epoxy.


The bare floor just gets shinier as I scrub it with the floor scrubber.

[COPO]

I was told that even with a brand new and cured floor they still need to diamond grind it followed by the acid wash because the "slick finish" of most concrete floors won't allow good adhesion for the coating. This was from a guy who does floor coatings for commercial businesses.

[Charley Lillard]

They did diamond grind it and it still failed.

[big gear head]

The floor is finally done. I used ArmorPoxy Ballistix SC to seal it and Sikaflex 1A to fill the control joints. Both of these are safe with gasoline and other automotive chemicals. I used the no slip additive to keep me from falling when my shoes are wet. I think it turned out pretty good. Time will tell.