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#11
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Use the "per cylinder" method, it is far mor acurate than the 90 degree method. It takes a long time to do it correctly, but with time you get quicker.The most time is taken up with removing the A.I.R pipes.
I usually warm the engine, do one bank, warm it again and do the other. You can set the lash anywhere you want within a range of settings. The cam doesn't really have a set in stone lash setting, just a recommended lash setting. Different books and manuals have different settings listed for this cam. You can set lash looser to reduce duration, or tighter to increase duration. Both settings produce different acting engines. Lash settings can affect how convertor stalls, idle settings will be different, emissions,engine temperature among other things.Experiment a little within the range. I have run lashes from .024/.026 to.030/.030 ...I wouldn't go tighter than .024, and much bigger than .030 is tougher on parts. I finally settled on .026 /.028 Mark.
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2012 ZL1 black M6 1968 L36 4 spd Biscayne 1957 270 hp Corvette |
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#12
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I used a procedure from a Corvette site guru, and set the lash per my cam card. It's stock and runs good, so I'm not messing with mine!
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
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