![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
#11
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One other thing I forgot to mention...
Another potential issue that can contribute to cam/lifter failure is a tight or dirty lifter bore. A flat tappet lifter absolutely must be able to rotate freely in its bore...if it can't spin, it will go flat. As I've mentioned before, as a matter of SOP, I now run a small ball hone through the lifter bores of every engine I build just to make sure there's no varnish or "boogers" left behind after the block has been cleaned. Afterwards, during mock-up I test-fit the lifters in their bores to make sure they all slide right in and will spin with no effort. You'd be surprised at how many "snug" lifter bores I've encountered even after the block has been cleaned. ![]() Eric |
#12
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I have been stock piling the older version of Rotella, the one with API rating of CI-4. It has started to be hard to find but if you look you can still find it. I think that retailers are mixing their old stock in with the new so if you look one week and they don't have any, check back the next week and you may find some. The new Rotella oil with the new API rating of CJ-4 has greatly reduced levels of the ZDDP which many of us want in our oil. I don't believe that Shell will make Rotella with the CI-4 rating and the higher levels of ZDDP any more so start looking for it and buy every quart that you can find.
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1970Camaro Z28 |
#13
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Here is an oil tech report from hughes engines.They build strictly Mopar engines but the information sounds really good to me.I run th additive they sell.I buy it by the case and I have not had any problems yet!As a matter of fact we just fired up my soninlaws 340 dart today and used the rotella and a bottle of this additive.I do know it is some SLICK STUFF!
http://www.hughesengines.com/general...icleID=1000039 also here is the SLICK STUFF they sell! http://www.hughesengines.com/partDet...amp;eTypeID=20 |
#14
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We have switched to Gibbs oil as well- the break in stuff on the dyno and a different grade (XP3 I think??) once the engine is in the car. This is after I just lost a super high buck bilet ROLLER cam using RedLine race oil! Made me wonder what a flat tappet cam would do with RedLine, Gibbs seems to have done thier homework and the oil even made a little HP on the dyno. 3 races with it and no measurable wear (yet).
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