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#11
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Thanks for the help. I don't see a D battery in there. As noted above, I did change the AA batt.
Will call Mark again today.
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Don't believe everything you read on the internet ... Ben Franklin |
#12
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There is no D in the 680.
Talked to Mark again today. He said the original battery was a Mercury battery, and that if it is replaced with an Alkaline you have to put it in backwards. So, flipped it this evening and <span style="font-weight: bold">it works</span>, but the strobe fades out intermittently, especially at low RPM, so hopefully the capacitor kit will cure that. I went ahead and ordered the kit from Mark as well as a new belt and some other little bits just to bring her up to snuff (is that still a word?)
__________________
Don't believe everything you read on the internet ... Ben Franklin |
#13
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Got everything put in, converting to solid state and eliminating the vac tube on the power supply. Also got a new belt for the drive motor, as well as new leads.
Only hiccup was they sent 3 capacitors for the "3 capacitor" board, but mine had 4. Mark said it was the earlier model 680 and sent another capacitor, and updated instructions. Service was top notch. He was very good to work with. Got it put together this evening and it works great. I bought an adapter from Mark at Paramount as well so that I can re-curve hei and transistor ignition distributors. I tried it out on an old 1111480 distributor that someone had already re-curved, just to see where everything was. Had 13 degrees of advance (26 at the crank) all in by 1500 rpm (3000 at the crank). I didn't see any reason to change a thing. Will try that distributor out on my LT-1 and see how it runs with 10 and then 12 degrees of initial. I know the distributor that is in there doesn't max out until well over 4000 rpm. I just didn't want to mess around with it in the car, leaning over the fenders. Now I don't have to.
__________________
Don't believe everything you read on the internet ... Ben Franklin |
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