Floor Pan Replacement - GM A-body

[BARRY]

SAND BLAST FIRST

[Schonyenko2]

A couple of thoughts. One is that you pretty much only sand blast the bottom, and frame parts.

Second, is that if you can see that you are going to need to replace a major panel, ie: a qtr panel, there's not much use in having it blasted with anything as you're going to cut it off anyway. If it's a question about the extent of the damage, that can go either way, but if the floor pan looks like this GTO, or as you can see on the picture, the rt qtr looks like it either had damage at the base of the sail panel, or what I expect is a replacement qtr cut in low as was common at many body shops back in the day, you're spending money on blasting a piece that's probably going to be laying on the shop floor.Saving money on a resto is a good thing. I suggest you blast only what you're going to save. JMHO

[twertsy]

Not at the shop but here are a couple more pics of quarters off my ipad




And here's one from inside the trunk......might need trunk pan too.


[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img]

[Pulnaway]

You said you were going to do it ProTouring style? What are the plans for suspension?

[twertsy]

I installed the entire RideTech A-Body setup.

[twertsy]

I'm resurrecting this thread for another piece of advice. I've gotten plenty (all conflicting) from locals but thought I'd pose the question here. I've gotten the inners/outers in, and the trunk floor pan (complete). Now, as discussed earlier, I'm going with the complete floor pan, including rockers already in place. I'm also replacing full quarters. I've cut out and repaired all the rust from the floor mounting points.

My question is quarters first or floor pan first? Seems logical to me that the quarters would go on first to ensure stability?

[twertsy]

Ok, prepping for floor replacement. I have a new complete floor pan, all one piece including the rockers.



I built a fully adjustable bracing system which (fingers crossed) I'm hoping will keep everything in place.



The plan is to separate the old floor, raise the entire body via the trolly/hoist system, get the body cart out of the way, wheel the chassis / floor pan under and lower the body back down. Tack in the new floor and line up all body/frame mounting points, hang the doors temporarily, confirm measurements and align seams and proceed with new quarters.




I've gotta say, having never done this I'm scared as hell she's going to fold on me. I'd use the lift but removing the rockers means there's absolutely nowhere to put the arms. The body is going to have to hang for a little bit while I repair a couple body-to-floor mounting points that I can't get to when they're together. Looking at the setup, do you guys see any &quot;glaring&quot; gotchas?

Very much appreciate the feedback!

[Bill Pritchard]

I can't comment intelligently on your preparations, but you might want to look at Rick Pauley's thread about his 69 Chevelle that he is doing much of the same work to. It's a lengthy thread, but the last several pages are directly related to the work you are doing....

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthrea...elux#Post517403

[twertsy]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Pritchard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can't comment intelligently on your preparations, but you might want to look at Rick Pauley's thread about his 69 Chevelle that he is doing much of the same work to. It's a lengthy thread, but the last several pages are directly related to the work you are doing....

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthrea...elux#Post517403 </div></div>

Thanks for the link Bill, but there's one crucial factor that differentiates the 2 builds, and that's the rockers. Looks like he did the floor inside the original rockers or, he did the rockers separately. I'm attempting it all at one time.

[Canuck]

whose sheet metal are you using, Dynacorn or AMD?