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#11
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Sounds like the valve in the prop has shifted and is blocking the rear port. It needs to be centered again by removing the electric sensor. Sometimes a person can use a small jewelers screw driver thru the sensor hole to pry the valve piston back in place. Other times, you need to remove the cap on the end to move it. There is a tool to insert to prevent it from moving when bleeding one end before the other. RPOLS3 has gone thru this recently and bought the tool. The way I avoid this, is by gravity bleeding all 4 corners before pedal/pressure bleeding.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
The Following User Says Thank You to Too Many Projects For This Useful Post: | ||
L_e_e (06-05-2022) |
#12
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Corvette Central sells the vent tube in the C2 section under air cleaners.
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#13
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Chevelle brakes...
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So...when he does the install....should he just do the gravity bleed process you describe..?? Will he need the tool to hold the piston in position.?? If so, who is the best source for that gizmo. Thanks...wilma
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02 Berger 380hp #95 Lots of L78 Novas Join National Nostalgic Nova! 70 Orange Cooler 69 Camaro |
#14
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From Jake Dykstra's thread. Unfortunately, he didn't post where he bought the tool.
OK - so some good things happening already this morning. On my way into the office I stopped by my buddies shop for some advice. He tapped the valve lightly with a dead blow hammer after shooting some compressed air into the port and the piston centered on its own. I installed the centering tool to hold it in position.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#15
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I don't have this tool, and always do the gravity bleed method, in the same order as bleeding..RR, LR, RF, LF.
I do open all 4 to begin with and shut them as fluid appears and then go around in the proper order and let fluid drain for a few seconds each. Keep checking the master with all 4 open, it can go down quickly at first.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#16
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Sounds like you are having the same problem I had with the prop valve. I bought the centering tool from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/WISPAUSU-Comp...70711188&psc=1 |
The Following User Says Thank You to RPOLS3 For This Useful Post: | ||
Too Many Projects (06-06-2022) |
#17
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Thanks Jake, I'm going to get 2 to have on hand also. 1 is $9 and 2 are $11 ?? May as well buy 2...
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
The Following User Says Thank You to Too Many Projects For This Useful Post: | ||
RPOLS3 (06-06-2022) |
#18
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proportioning valve tool...
I just did the same...one for me and one for Gino.
Now when he gets the new valve and tool...should we install with the tool in place and then let the brakes gravity bleed. Then finish with pressure bleeding and when that is good...take out the tool and re-install the idiot switch. ??? wilma
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02 Berger 380hp #95 Lots of L78 Novas Join National Nostalgic Nova! 70 Orange Cooler 69 Camaro |
#19
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No gravity bleeding necessary with the tool...pump away...
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#20
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Quote:
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