![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Today's Posts | Search |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I figured that's where you'd find the problem. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img]
Just to cover the obvious since you mentioned it was slow/difficult to turn over--were there any signs of mechanical binding? (i.e. bent pushrods/valves) If you need any help with degreeing the cam, give me a shout. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Never any signs of binding or hitting. Thanks to the 8.4 to 1 pistons!
So now I have a cam degreeing set that my wife will be wrapping for a Christmas gift (for me). |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I knew you would figure it out, didn't doubt it for a minute.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Well, that makes one of us that was sure. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Eureka!
Got everything back together this morning after correcting the crank gear fiasco. I hooked up the oil pan heater and the coolant heater and got the block temp up to 180 degrees. I cleaned up a set of the fouled plugs and threw them back in. Set the distributor by eye and crossed my fingers. I turned the key and the car instantly started. I then sat there for 15 minutes running the cam in at 1700 to 2000 rpm. Shut her off, and checked for leaks. Thankfully none were found, especially in the rear main seal area and the front of the pan where the timing cover had to be removed. I then drained all the start up 10W30 oil and additives (Lucas Break-in additive, STP and all the red cam lube and moly paste), and checked the magnetic drain plug. Nothing whatsoever on the magnet. Very clean. I refilled it with 5 quarts of 5W30 and Lucas break-in additive. I then let it cool down to ambient temperature. Once it cooled off, The son and I went out for a ring-setting drive. I did 10 sets of 30 to 50 mph second gear full throttle runs. After each run up the rpms I would let it pull itself down in gear, back to 30 mph. Then I drove a few miles more to my buddy's garage to give him the good news and went back home after the 11 mile round trip. She runs nice! Once the weather clears up I will play with the timing so more, but she feels very strong right now and not a even hint of pinging. Here's how she looks at the moment: ![]() ![]() ![]() And here's how she sounds. Very smooth and quiet until you hit the throttle. (put your mouse on the photo and left click) ![]() Now I have to put Gramma's car back together after borrowing the cap and wires for testing on the Formula. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img] |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I just checked my math and it looks like this engine pull and rebuild took 34 days start to finish, even with the 6 day delay with the crank pully mix-up. Gramma's Firebird took 35 days.
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbt...ect#Post449019 It's a new, family engine rebuild record! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img] |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Nice! I LOVE the sound from the Formula Firebird exhaust!!! (Reminds me of my brothers first car a 1970 Castillian Bronze Formula 400 [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img] )
__________________
Bruce Choose Life-Donate! |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
You are the man Steve. Sure would like to have someone like you on my payroll!
__________________
Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
LOL. I'll send you a resume. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]
BTW, if anyone is interested in the old pistons and rods out of this engine here are the links. They make great Christmas gifts! Or Chanukah gifts - one for each night! Call now operators are standing by! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthrea..._For#Post509974 https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbt...975#Post509975 |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I scuffed and painted the top of the radiator support yesterday and then installed the ECS Automotive repro emissions sticker I had in my "decal file".
ECS made their repro 1972 455HO sticker from my original that I peeled off of the 72 Trans Am a few years ago. It is definitely the most accurate one out there. They are happy to make new stickers from your originals if it is one that they don't have in their inventory. (They even gave me a couple free ones for loaning them my original). [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] http://www.ecsautomotive.com/product...co=g&id=11 ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
|
|