Harry Mann 68 L78 / L88 Camaro

[napa68]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: protree68</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow what a sweet car and cool history </div></div>

I appreciate that coming from you. If you lived closer, you would probably find me with my nose pressed up against the window of your garage. YOU have some neat cars!

Tim

[napa68]

Here are a few pics from the carb. Frankly, I've never run into this before. Is there a good way to repair it?

I see Heartbeat City has one that appears to be very correct. Please advise is there a detail I missed.

Tim

[earntaz]

In my 70+ years I have probably seen a gazillion Holley carbs -- I've never seen an issue like this with the idle screw. TAZ [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/dunno.gif[/img]

[resto4u]

Tim, i think a skilled person could tig weld this together. But it will be as a repair, if it has to be undetectable you should find a base plate. Roger

[Charley Lillard]

From the pics I would suggest Safest rust remover and not replate stuff.

[luzl78]

I agree with Charlie. It just will not look correct with all the detail items looking perfect against the 49 year patina.

[napa68]

That is my plan. The evaporust is brewing as we speak.

[njsteve]

FYI, depending on how long it is soaking, the evaporust and safestrustremover will remove some types of plating, like the black oxide on bolts and the grey phosphate on the hinges. I once soaked a semi-rusty brake booster in the liquid and it washed clean the yellow cad plating on the booster, down to the bare metal. It is wonderful stuff on bare metal items that have no other preexisting surface plating. It won't affect paint unless the paint is hanging on to a rusty portion of the metal and then it will seap underneath, dissolve the underlying rust and the paint will float off in that spot.

Don't use it on pot-metal or cast white metal as it will get into the pits and then start dissolving the metal away. I learned that the hard way on a portion of a lower steering column. After soaking too long, it looked like it developed the automotive equivilent of smallpox.

P.S. Heat up the liquid and the part and it works much faster. Piror to dipping, I usually leave the item to be soaked and the jugs of liquid out in the sun a few hours, or I use that aquarium heater in the bucket. 75 to 80 degrees is fine.

[napa68]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: njsteve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">FYI, depending on how long it is soaking, the evaporust and safestrustremover will remove some types of plating, like the black oxide on bolts and the grey phosphate on the hinges. I once soaked a semi-rusty brake booster in the liquid and it washed clean the yellow cad plating on the booster, down to the bare metal. It is wonderful stuff on bare metal items that have no other preexisting surface plating. It won't affect paint unless the paint is hanging on to a rusty portion of the metal and then it will seap underneath, dissolve the underlying rust and the paint will float off in that spot.

Don't use it on pot-metal or cast white metal as it will get into the pits and then start dissolving the metal away. I learned that the hard way on a portion of a lower steering column. After soaking too long, it looked like it developed the automotive equivilent of smallpox.

P.S. Heat up the liquid and the part and it works much faster. Piror to dipping, I usually leave the item to be soaked and the jugs of liquid out in the sun a few hours, or I use that aquarium heater in the bucket. 75 to 80 degrees is fine. </div></div>

You were right about the phosphate coating.................pics to come [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/stupid.gif[/img]

[cook_dw]

Good points Steve. I had the same dilemma. I chose to soak the parts and remove the rust vs losing coatings. If you are careful and dont allow it to sit for really long periods of time you can save some of the coatings. What I did do was upon removing said parts from the evaporust I would let air dry (as long as they were not any black from the oxidation of rust). It sorta works as a prevention too although doesnt last long. I still use WD40 or light oil to continue the preservation of the finishes. I now use an old crockpot with evaporust and it cuts the time down to around an hour where I was waiting anywhere from 12-24 hours. Just have to watch your temps. As for the #7 the hood looks great!! I kept going with #7 and would rub the shit out of it like I was mad at it until I started to see less and less green on the towels.. Of course you will always see car color when waxing lacquer. James(firstgenaddict) &amp; Mike Phillips from Auto Geek were my inspiration and who I read about with caring for original paints, tips and tricks and had phone conversations with both on opinions and thoughts about the green car. Heck I used #7 on everything from the heater box, firewall, core support, fender braces, inner fenders brackets and the whole underside of the car.. Even if it had rust on it and I couldnt use evapo I would rub it down with #7. Its some really good stuff. Great progress so far and look forward to seeing more.