Chevelle updates

[VintageMusclecar]

I *think * I've found the issue.

When I measured the hub on the HD axle, it appears I had the calipers slightly on the radius at the back of the register which showed the large reading. I re-measured this morning making sure to only measure the outer part of the register, and it does measure the same as the c-clip style axle for the `67 rear end. (It's not easy to get an accurate measurement with the wheel studs in place)

It appears I may just need to go one size larger on the wheel stud holes to allow a little wiggle room for the drum to index on the register. I'm off to the hardware store shortly to pick up a 17/32" drill bit.

Please...let it be this easy. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/crazy.gif[/img]

[VintageMusclecar]

Thank you Baby Jesus, thank you Tom Cruise!

[earntaz]

Sometimes ya' just have to get lucky!

[VintageMusclecar]

I had the brakes done on the Suburban last year, and they installed new rear shoes &amp; all new hardware. The truck had just over 200K miles on it at the time, and the shoes were indeed the original units. I'm not sure what grade of shoes they replaced them with, I need to check the receipt and see if it's mentioned on there. They initially had the rear brakes set a little too tight--to the point where a trip to Kil Kare the following day led to a noticeable &quot;hitching&quot; issue during normal driving (NOT just while braking) once the drums got a little warm. I took it back in and they backed the shoes off, but I think they backed them off too much.

Mine's a 2WD so no CV joints for me to have to deal with. However the front ABS sensors do tend to get fouled up with rust &amp; road debris which necessitates de-schmutzing them once in a while.

Aside from the above, all that's really left to do on the short list is get a section of corroded fuel line replaced along with installing a fresh fuel filter. I do want to replace the rusty pass. side front fender and the pass. side rear cargo door that got boogered up when Dave (bodyguy who did the Chevelle) had trouble replacing the hinge pin bushings and wound up actually breaking one of the hinges (--which for some unexplainable reason the factory saw fit to WELD on both the body AND the doors?!?) in the process, but that'll have to wait. I'm holding out in the hopes of finding a fender &amp; door in the original color so I don't have to re-paint nor drive around in a multi-hued DD.

Who knows?!?--maybe this year I'll FINALLY be able to get the 489 nestled down in the engine bay. I'm sure the stock 454 would appreciate that lol...she's pretty tired at this point.

Hey--at least now I'll have the &quot;whoa&quot; to go along with the &quot;GO!&quot; of the 489. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

[njsteve]

I thought you put that new engine in a while ago? I remember when we attempted to remove my rear drums. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img] If did my best Quasimodo impression trying to &quot;ring the bell&quot; with a sledge hammer, banging on the outer rim of the drum to break it free from the hub after 20 years.

[VintageMusclecar]

Nope, the 489 project has been on the shelf since right after the dyno testing was completed, that's when my fathers health went downhill. As the `Burb is my DD I wasn't comfortable pulling it out of service long enough to do the engine swap out of concern for potential tuning/computer issues.

W/O going into too much detail, the guy I bought all my TBI stuff from for the 489 install (oversized TBI, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, in-tank HV pump and custom burned PROM) suddenly developed a very <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">bad</span></span> reputation <span style="font-style: italic">right after</span> I'd bought everything from him (Shades of my experience with Desert Valley [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img]).

As such, I've held off on the swap until such time as I would be able to spare the truck for a few weeks if necessary for de-bugging. I do have another TBI chip guy in mind should this one not run right, so at least there's that option.

*Stuff* like this is precisely why I love good old-fashioned carburetors and conventional distributors. Unfortunately, converting the truck from TBI to carbureted is a fairly involved job, so practicality is forcing me to at least attempt to make the TBI system work.

We shall see.

[VintageMusclecar]

Installation of an MSD #8739 2 step box:

The reason for the 2 step install was simple: the car is extremely quiet which makes hearing the engine RPM on the starting line basically impossible, esp. when the car in the other lane is running open headers. As such, consistently controlling launch rpm is damned near impossible. In an attempt to be able to launch the car consistently--and at a somewhat low rpm in an effort to reduce parts breakage, I decided to install and MSD #8739 2 step box to go along with my 6AL box.

The car was already equipped with a basic MSD 6AL unit which was mounted on the inner fender next to the battery both for convenience's sake and to help keep it somewhat less visible.



With the battery removed to make some room to work, the 2 step box was mounted next to the 6AL and the main power feed wire was ran straight to the battery junction post on the core support. Under normal operation, the 2 step uses the 2nd &quot;module&quot; which is the high rpm limit. When the 2 step is activated, it bypasses module 2 and energizes module 1, which is the low side. I chose to wire the 2 step by running power direct to the box and using a switch on the shifter handle to complete the ground circuit to activate the 2 step.



With everything back in place, the ground wire to the 2 step was routed through the engine bay above the passenger side inner fender, along the firewall and down the passenger side floorboard.





To activate the 2 step for the time being, I chose the classic Hurst t-handle which has a momentary contact switch built in. The wiring was ran down along the shifter handle and through the shifter grommet and under the car. One side of the wiring was grounded to the transmission crossmember and the other was attached to the ground wire to the 2 step box.



Note: I may change the wiring depending on how well it works as-is: MSD does show an alternate wiring schematic which uses a common 5 pole relay along with a clutch pedal mounted activation switch for the 2 step. The momentary contact button on the shifter handle activates the system while the clutch switch is energized, but the shifter button does not need to be held down as it does now. Once the system is activated and the clutch switch is tripped it de-activates the 2 step and reverts back to the high side chip.

Video of the 2 step-click the pic:



Hoping to get back to the track very soon.

Will the 3rd time be a charm? [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img]

[VintageMusclecar]

Gonn'a try this again.

https://www.facebook.com/events/346419402361882/







Gates open @ 10:00, track opens at 11:00.

[scuncio]

Good luck!!

[earntaz]

Give er' hell Eric and good luck!! TAZ [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/burnout.gif[/img]