OneStopRestoration's Special Orange 69 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Coupe

[OneStopRestoration]

I have dehumidifiers on storage and paint booth. Thought about a mini split for the paint booth but just another thing that is a want rather than a need. I was chuckling a bit about the working in the shop. They took the Methylene out of the stripers because it was causing people to pass out! Even with it now gone i do it all open air. I love this hobby but id like to be around and kicking for years to come

[OneStopRestoration]

Some cars seem to have some surface rust which is always alot of work to get clean. I strip the paint and then get out muriatic acid. Nasty stuff to work with. Doesnt take too long for the rust pits to disappear. This roof was not too bad but still a multi day event to get cleaned and neutralized before starting the first step of body work.

[RobR]

Question, after the muriatic acid and neutralizing, do you put anything on the metal to prevent flash rust? TIA

[scuncio]

I’m also curious how you apply and neutralize the muriatic acid.

[OneStopRestoration]

Originally Posted by RobR

Question, after the muriatic acid and neutralizing, do you put anything on the metal to prevent flash rust? TIA

No, its just alot of hard work after that. Wire wheel the entire top, followed by a d/a. Even after doing a day of body fill and blocking I will probably hit it again before putting down some primer. I think a little OCD at this stage will pay dividends later.

[OneStopRestoration]

Originally Posted by scuncio

I’m also curious how you apply and neutralize the muriatic acid.

You just need a strong base solution like water and baking soda. You will still get some amount of light rust, just no way to get around it.

[chevyman0429]

Thanks for posting your work although i know this stuff takes time I look daily for updates!

[OneStopRestoration]

After stripping its hammer out the dents, followed by the base layer of filler. I wanna point out that the better job of hammering out the dents the less filler you have which is the primary goal. I realize this roof looks bad but there is very sliver thin areas of filler here. After that epoxy prime followed by standard primer.

This paves the way to about a dozen additional rounds of blocking and sanding.

[OneStopRestoration]

Aside from body work finishing up chassis items one at a time. I dont have the time, patience or money to try and get a driveshaft back to bare metal and have it look good, so painted works just fine for me.

[OneStopRestoration]

This is one that is a first for me. Upon doing some window channel sand blasting i found the package tray area undeer the dutchman panel was pinholes from rust. After investigating and blowing out a bunch seat cushioning it appears some mice packing the space and it allowed moisture to hold itself againts the angle section of the package tray as it leads up to the ledge the dutchman panel is spot welded too, or in other words the small section where the rear window sits on. Truly amazing spot to have found rust. Not a great spot to have to fix, but im shocked how good the reproduction panel was made. Almost a perfect exact match to the original panel. Sometimes these cars can throw you a real suprise during restoration.