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Old 03-28-2018, 03:40 PM
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I actually bought a tub, sprayer, hose and several gallons of Evapo-Rust (which I use lots of anyway) and just decided this block was just too crusty to go that route when for considerably less time and money I could have it shot blasted. I use Evapo-Rust on brake pedal assemblies, e-brake assemblies and many other components that were bare steel when assembled and it works quite well.
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Old 03-28-2018, 05:39 PM
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Rick....You had earlier stated " We spend hours a day at the glass bead cabinet for things like spindles, steering arms, brackets, clips, etc and it is a complete waste of time when I could be having a machine do it automatically for me while we do something more constructive. The expense does not really bother me as that could be paid for in less than a week in saved production time alone."

I certainly didnt mean to imply you were overcharging anybody. I was suggesting that shot blasting and vibratory tumbling/shaking would cut down on your labor hours and increase your shop productivity.

My best regards,
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Old 02-01-2019, 05:33 PM
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I would buy many gallons of the evaporust and find a plactic bin just big enough for the block. Line the bin with heavy plastic sheeting to reduce the amount of volume you need to fill with the fluid. Find a outdoor pool heater and put that in to get it up to around 85 degrees. Let it soak.

Remember the rusted 455 crankshaft I found for the Gramma car engine build?

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthre...aporust&page=7
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Old 03-28-2018, 05:52 PM
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Understood Chuck. My bad.
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Old 06-07-2018, 12:54 PM
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I decided to have mine done and to be safe, made a plate to cover the VIN. The block turned out great and no damage anywhere. Based on what I saw of the block it likely would not have harmed the stamping or broach marks but decided to leave it virgin instead.
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Old 06-07-2018, 01:36 PM
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My engine builder has a shot peen cabinet and a tumbler. On all of his higher end engine builds, they are hot washed, shot peen'd and then tumbled clean. I must say that the blocks turn out great. I was so impressed I asked him if he could do my 610 intake for my 68 and ho obliged.

It turned out great as well. I'll see if I can find a picture of my block when it was cleaned. Here's the intake before I added the correct M intake bolts.

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Old 02-01-2019, 01:39 PM
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The biggest problem I have found with the process seems to be time in the machine
It will cause problems with the broach and stamps but moreover that too moch of a good thing will alter lifter bores and put shot in every hole that is hard and time consuming to remove . I worked in aachine shop and we used hot tank
We had a. Freinf who used.ampro and I did not like the extra work it caused. Since it has been baked I would finish with a wire brush
Nothing worse than building your engine and then to find out the lifter. Bores areessed up
Good luck
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Old 02-01-2019, 06:38 PM
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85* wine coolers, yuck! j/k
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Old 02-01-2019, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss427 View Post
85* wine coolers, yuck! J/k

lol!
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Old 02-05-2019, 02:39 PM
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For future rust issues... I've used the higher percentage acidity vinegar on quite a few things and it does better than Evaporust in my opinion. This gas tank was completely crusty and full of rust scale. It was a serious candidate for a new tank, but someone suggested the vinegar trick. I filled it, let it sit for a few days while giving it a good shake now and then. I did that three more times and this is how it came out. Not a spec of rust left. I've done it on several of my 69 parts and the results were just as amazing.

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