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I am ready to find something. Everything I've chased is either sold or out of my pricerange.
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<span style="font-weight: bold">John Chevelle and Tri Five Parts 56 210 66 Chevelle </span> |
#2
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Try and find a good deal on a running truck motor as they're the deal especially if the 4
![]() ![]() ~ Pete
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I like real cars best...especially the REAL real ones! |
#3
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Tony 55 Nomad Gasser 70 SS 427 Nova 34 Ford Sedan..Hemi powered Michigan/ Florida |
#4
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John,
Be wary of truck blocks unless you're planning on building a blower motor. They have 2 fly-cut wedges removed from the combustion chamber to lower compression to about 7.5. You can't make that up with different pistons. There are some ways to recognize a truck motor externally (if it's mostly complete). The intake will be a very low-rise with extra threaded bosses near the front to mount an air brake pump. The dist. is one with a govenor and has a wide metal band around the base. The water pump is huge and the valve covers will have the 4-wire loom tacked at the middle, rather than the rear. Good luck. Verne ![]() |
#5
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Verne,
Unlike the later MK1V passenger and truck engines being different from each other, w/ the W motors can't you mount external passenger car parts like intakes, waterpumps etc to the truck engines even though they're lower in performance internally?. ![]() ~ Pete
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I like real cars best...especially the REAL real ones! |
#6
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[ QUOTE ]
Verne, Unlike the later MK1V passenger and truck engines being different from each other, w/ the W motors can't you mount external passenger car parts like intakes, waterpumps etc to the truck engines even though they're lower in performance internally?. ![]() ~ Pete [/ QUOTE ] Yep! You can bolt any passenger car stuff (including Z-11 if you wanted to) onto a truck block. You're still dealing with low compression and there's NO way around it unless you weld up the fly-cut wedges. Remember, W motors have flat head surfaces, ie: no combustion chambers in the heads (except for 13cc around the valves). The combustion chamber is in the block above the cylinder bore. IT's a 16deg wedge between the top of the piston and the head. Verne ![]() ![]() ![]() Sorry, I forgot to resize the pictures..... |
#7
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Type in Gasser on e-bay there is a 55 chevy with a 348 in it
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Jake is my grandson!! |
#8
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[ QUOTE ]
Be wary of truck blocks unless you're planning on building a blower motor. They have 2 fly-cut wedges removed from the combustion chamber to lower compression to about 7.5. You can't make that up with different pistons. Verne ![]() [/ QUOTE ] Won't most of those fly cuts go away when the block is bored?? A picture would be nice. It would help i.d. a truck block if I were to see one apart. Are those eyebrows in the last picture what you are talking about?
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...................... John Brown This isn't rocket surgery..... |
#9
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John,
Sorry, but I don't have any pics of the truck block notches. (or externally) Maybe you might find one on the 348-409 site? The notches are very deep, maybe 1/4", so overboring won't do much to reclaim compression. You'd have to bore it almost .090" just to begin to cut into the combustion area where the notches are. That area is rough machined and a larger diameter than the finished machined cylinder wall. The pic I posted is of a '62 409hp block (.057" over). IT was only to illustrate the swept part of the cylinder vs the wedge chamber above it. Verne ![]() |
#10
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Is this the truck block notch Verne?.
http://www.superchevy.com/features/p.../photo_04.html And they're on all truck blocks whether 348 or 409's?. What's the whole story on the two notches in earlier blocks and one notch on the later blocks thing...two is worse?. Do 409's always have the counterbalanced crank and the 348's the round one where the flywheel bolts on?. And are the distributors and waterpumps W-motor only or do SB or BB ones fit?. Thanks!. ![]() ~ Pete
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I like real cars best...especially the REAL real ones! |
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