The New Project: Part Deux!

[njsteve]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: njsteve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">LOL. I'll send you a resume. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]

BTW, if anyone is interested in the old pistons and rods out of this engine here are the links.

They make great Christmas gifts!

Or Chanukah gifts - one for each night!

Call now operators are standing by!

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthrea..._For#Post509974

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbt...975#Post509975 </div></div>

Both the rods and the pistons have been sold.

[njsteve]

I have been tuning the carb and timing the past few days. I am currently on 74 jets, 43 primary rods and DA secondary rods. She runs very nicely and pulls well up the RPM range.

Does anyone have a spare pair of BE or BL secondary rods they can &quot;loan&quot; me? The magic setup recipe that I had in the T/A was 74 jet, 44 primary rods and BE secondary rods and that car pulled like crazy (same rear gears, same transmission).

I have around 110 miles on the motor now and I am a firm believer in breaking them in like you are going to drive them: hard. She starts at the first turn of the key and idles nicely. I have been doing a lot of my 8 mile test and tune trips over the past week or so when the weather permits.

[njsteve]

Got the heat riser hoses installed for the Ram Air air cleaner. One of the PerformanceYears.com members, &quot;PB&quot; sent me the correct beveled 455HO plastic elbows and original clamps, as well as the heat stove base plate and 90 degree steel eblow. The corrugated hoses I got from Performance Years for $6 each.

This is sure one Rube-Goldberg contraption once all those hoses are hooked up. No wonder everyone who had one of these cars ripped them out and tossed them in the garbage. It takes two people to remove or install the air cleaner now.

I also discovered that if you don't have the correct &quot;thick&quot; 1/4&quot; carb to intake gasket, the air cleaner heat riser elbow on the drivers side will jam up against the valve cover and will hold up that side up, off the carb.

[StriperSS]

Somewhere I have a photo of another Formula 455 in Vancouver. If I recall correctly, he was a mechanic at Carter Pontiac Buick in Burnaby. I'll hunt for it.

[Donnie]

real nice! you need one of those see thru hoods [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

[mockingbird812]

Sharp Steve. Persistence pays off.

[napa68]

As always..........................I'm impressed!

[firstgenaddict]

I was leery of it when I first heard of it as well.

After the body shop supplier demonstrated the bonding of a seam and actually used frame clamps and a hydraulic press to try and pull the bonded seam apart, the sheet metal ripped before the bonded joint had a chance to fail...
I was amazed...

[njsteve]

I figured I might as well join the twentieth century, technology-wise, now that's it's the twenty-first.

I'm a strict follower of the Automotive Hypocratic Oath: &quot;Above all, do no harm&quot;

Since it's not really a structural part of the body and I didn't want to do more damage to a solid car in an effort to install a correct replacement part, I decided to go the adhesive route. The body guy indicated that there are some adhesives that are useable in conjunction with the assembly line clamping spot welders, so you could have the best of both worlds if you were trying to accurately reproduce the factory &quot;crunched&quot; look of the spot welds at the bottom of the quarters and fender lips, in additon to having total adhesion and corrosion protection.

[jannes_z-28]

They have been gluing real aircraft parts together for a few decades so why not cars?

Jan