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#1
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I think it's appropriate sometimes to pay more for a car simply because you want it! It doesn't have to come down to an IRR calc, because how do you put a 'fun' value on a car during your ownership. Just enjoy it
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
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#2
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You didn't do bad at 27, its a cool looking car too...Throw a set of Wide Tread GTs on it and it would really have some eyeball... I love the blue guts, nice to see something other than basic black.
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Joe Barr |
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#3
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I have a set of 15x7 torque thrusts I've been saving for several years. It also needs some detailing underneath- new brake and fuel lines, gas tank, u-bolt and bushing kit, and maybe some subframe bushings. otherwise I'll be @ the next cruise in for sure.
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1968 Z-28 1969 X-77 original 1971 RS 17's-hotchkis-406/6spd 1998 SS 6spd |
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#4
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Seeing the photos have me convinced its real. While documentation always helps the value, especially with a 68 Z/28, I'm guessing now that you have it back, so you'll probably never sell it. That alone should be worth paying a premium for it.
I had a chance to buy back my first Camaro two years ago. The guy wanted $12K for it (I had sold it for $1500), and knowing its history, and previous rust issues I dealt with when restoring the body 15 years ago, I new it was a stretch at what he was asking. (Original motor and tranny was gone; he changed the interior from parchment to black; and he painted it powder blue with medium blue runway stripes.) I almost bought it, but instead picked up a much cleaner Camaro for less money. Of course I now have three times that into it ... but then that's a different story. Had my first Camaro been a Z/28 or an SS instead of just an RS, it would've been much harder to buy it back at any price. ![]() I say keep the 327 in it for now. It makes it a much more dependable "driver".
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Jeff
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#5
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[ QUOTE ]
Seeing the photos have me convinced its real. I say keep the 327 in it for now. It makes it a much more dependable "driver". [/ QUOTE ] You can tell it's real by looking at the pictures?? I would be curious to know how. Obviously not by the non-original 327 or the non original shifter. What tell tale signs convinced you? Ok, the tire decal is in the glove box. Which tire decal? The owner clearly stated the motor was not original and the Muncie was not matching and he wasn't sure of the rearend, the rally's are not correct. [ QUOTE ] A quick description is as follows: wrong engine-327 that looks correct- m-21 Muncie non matching##- I believe the correct rear but not sure. On a 1-10 I would call it a very nice 8 or very nice driver. The car is very solid no hit car original sheet metal with the exception of patch panels on the drivers side only. The car is not detailed underneath just spray bombed black the interior is very nice original and it does have 15x6 rallies but I don’t think they are correct. [/ QUOTE ] Now, a set of pictures proves it's a real Z/28? Rick H. |
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#6
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Can you post a picture of the trim tag? Also how about a picture of the 4 piston calipers and 2 piece rotors. The master cylinder is wrong so that doesn't help.
Alternator doesn't have the deep groove pulley so that's not correct. How about a picture or posting of the radiator tag? What timing decal is on the core support? I would like to see something a little more convincing besides pictures of a nice Blue 1968 Camaro non original motor SB 4 speed car with white stripes. Rick H. |
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#7
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I'll be more than happy to post the pics but I've promised the family a trip to Gatlinburg this weekend( even invited my mother in law to smooth this car thing over).
On a little different note, a lot of people got of track with this post. I'm not trying to convince you guys it's a real car, I know it's the real deal and I'm going to enjoy the car even if it was a 6 cyl. I was curious what it was worth and have enjoyed all the input over the last few days. Sure it would be cool to find the build sheet, pop, anything to validate the car and without anything it's almost if not impossible to prove anything on a 1968. Every item to validate the car that was just mentioned can be bought today even though there are select few that can tell the difference but not many in some cases. Don't hold your breath until I post up and say "LOOKIE WHAT I FOUND,THE POP IMAGINE THAT" I'm only interested in preserving a little piece of my past and have fun doing so. Who knows what will become available in the future only time will tell??? I wonder if Central Chevrolet in Clombia has kept any records that old?? I'll call and see, I doubt they did.
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1968 Z-28 1969 X-77 original 1971 RS 17's-hotchkis-406/6spd 1998 SS 6spd |
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#8
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[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ] Seeing the photos have me convinced its real. I say keep the 327 in it for now. It makes it a much more dependable "driver". [/ QUOTE ] You can tell it's real by looking at the pictures?? I would be curious to know how. Obviously not by the non-original 327 or the non original shifter. What tell tale signs convinced you? Ok, the tire decal is in the glove box. Which tire decal? The owner clearly stated the motor was not original and the Muncie was not matching and he wasn't sure of the rearend, the rally's are not correct. Now, a set of pictures proves it's a real Z/28? Rick H. [/ QUOTE ] I knew I'd get flamed for not prequalifying that statement. Based on Redneck's story on the car while he owned it, his information from the original owners and the photos, I am convinced its a real Z/28. There are more things in those photos that are correct than are incorrect. For starters, the first thing I noticed are the runway stripes. Almost every Z/28 clone I see, and sometimes even real restored Z/28s, the runway stripes are incorrect. Even the one's on my 67 clone are incorrect and I made the painter buy the stencils. The correctness of Redneck's stripes I have only seen on real Z/28s. A 327 in a Z/28 is not as uncommon as you think. Many 302s were replaced over the years, especially if the car was used primarily for street duty. Yes I'm taking on faith about his story from the original owners, however based upon what I've seen so far, its well worth what he paid for it, especially when you consider its sentimental value to him.
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Jeff
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#9
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[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] Seeing the photos have me convinced its real. I say keep the 327 in it for now. It makes it a much more dependable "driver". [/ QUOTE ] You can tell it's real by looking at the pictures?? I would be curious to know how. Obviously not by the non-original 327 or the non original shifter. What tell tale signs convinced you? Ok, the tire decal is in the glove box. Which tire decal? The owner clearly stated the motor was not original and the Muncie was not matching and he wasn't sure of the rearend, the rally's are not correct. Now, a set of pictures proves it's a real Z/28? Rick H. [/ QUOTE ] I knew I'd get flamed for not prequalifying that statement. Based on Redneck's story on the car while he owned it, his information from the original owners and the photos, I am convinced its a real Z/28. There are more things in those photos that are correct than are incorrect. For starters, the first thing I noticed are the runway stripes. Almost every Z/28 clone I see, and sometimes even real restored Z/28s, the runway stripes are incorrect. Even the one's on my 67 clone are incorrect and I made the painter buy the stencils. The correctness of Redneck's stripes I have only seen on real Z/28s. A 327 in a Z/28 is not as uncommon as you think. Many 302s were replaced over the years, especially if the car was used primarily for street duty. Yes I'm taking on faith about his story from the original owners, however based upon what I've seen so far, its well worth what he paid for it, especially when you consider its sentimental value to him. [/ QUOTE ] Thanks for the vote of confidence. For a driver/crusie in car it's fine for me. I know it will never be worth as much as a survivor matching ## car. but that only comes into play when it comes time to sell, and trust me I've got plenty of other stuff around that will go first. This will be the last to go. Bear in mind the car was painted around 1990 so a there wasn't a lot of repo parts then.
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1968 Z-28 1969 X-77 original 1971 RS 17's-hotchkis-406/6spd 1998 SS 6spd |
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#10
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Flame on!
[ QUOTE ] There are more things in those photos that are correct than are incorrect. For starters, the first thing I noticed are the runway stripes. Almost every Z/28 clone I see, and sometimes even real restored Z/28s, the runway stripes are incorrect. Even the one's on my 67 clone are incorrect and I made the painter buy the stencils. The correctness of Redneck's stripes I have only seen on real Z/28s. [/ QUOTE ] I was going to bow out of this conversation but I keep reading things that make wonder how. How can you tell by pictures if things are correct? The stripes are correct? How? Obviously the stripes you see were not applied at the factory. Look at the picture he posted of the car at his sisters wedding in 1986. No stripes and a 1969 cowl hood to boot. Someone painted the stripes on the car later on in life. So you are absolutely sure they are correct by the picture? Matter of fact with the amount of parts missing from the picture I would say it looks freshly painted. Don't get me wrong, I think the car is very nice and should be enjoyed for what it is not for what it might be. Rick H. Oops...Flame Off! |
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