Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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A local man here had his Car Dipped.
He Loved the out of tank results,but said the tank material had collected in the joint and seam areas. When he finished Painting it,he could see bleed through of this chemical,and it wouldn't hold paint well,and it never went away.He complained to the Dipper who said there was nothing he would do. I hope this is not the case for all of these places? |
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#2
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On regards to the chemical strip process and it leaving the residue behind; I have done quite a few sets of rims this way and tend to need to lightly bead/sand blast media those seam areas prior to basing any color on any metal that has been prepped in this manner. Some of my fellow painters suggest thouroughly soap and water clean the seam areas. I considered this process as well on a couple 69 shells Ive done in the past and because of this result, I have decided to pay a local sand blast shop to go over areas such as this. Most painters like the hassle free event reducuing thier time involved but I agree this chemical residue can show up later after a car/metal being painted and It's a surmountable cost to fix these areas. Hope this helps [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif[/img]
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Chavez Ravine |
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#3
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I have dipped several dozen cars all with no problemns. As for residue in the seams washing out with thinner and wire wheeling always take care of it. To get thinner into the seams simply fill up you paint gun and spray it in with high pressure then blow it out with a blow gun and repeat if necessary also wipe the thinner with rags before it dries (as you would with prep-sol) and this leaves it clean. I always da, wire wheel or sand the bare metal before applying a self-etch or epoxy primer.
As for trim tags ALWAYS REMOVE as the chemicals do eat the aluminum. |
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