![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Greg, depending on the job I am doing and other circumstances, I either use 3M's seal caulk or acrylic window caulk. The seam caulk is water based and very easy to use. First prime the firewall. Then I simply lay a 1/4 bead along the weld seam and smear with a finger. Once you get the hange of it, it leaves the exact same appearance as the factory after final painting.
On Chevelles, particularly along the upper cowl joint, I use the acrylic caulk and a wooden stir stick with grooves cut in it. It too should be applied after priming and looks factory original when painted over. Rick
__________________
Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|