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  #31  
Old 01-21-2026, 04:49 PM
Formula455SD Formula455SD is offline
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Originally Posted by LT1vette View Post
Would the seller not have to give the proof of ownership to the auction house to hold?
The house WANTS to be GUARANTEED it receives payment, BOTH sides buyer/seller.
I have never been in that situation personally.

The seller hands the title over to the auction prior to the auction. If the seller "buys" the car back. The seller would have to give the auction both buyer and seller fees in order for the auction to release title and vehicle. It can get very expensive. If they have a friend buy the car back. The sale would go through the normal process as title would technically transfer.
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  #32  
Old 01-22-2026, 02:16 PM
EZ Nova EZ Nova is offline
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Originally Posted by Formula455SD View Post
I have never been in that situation personally.

The seller hands the title over to the auction prior to the auction. If the seller "buys" the car back. The seller would have to give the auction both buyer and seller fees in order for the auction to release title and vehicle. It can get very expensive. If they have a friend buy the car back. The sale would go through the normal process as title would technically transfer.
So IF I say a reserve at 1.3 million. I would hand over ownership prior to the auction.

On sale day, I have "someone" bid the car up and it stops with MY bidder at 1 million. MY bidder would have to fork over, 1 mill for the car, and $100,000 buyers fee, I would have to caught up $120,000. I would then get the million from the auction house, but I would have to pay MY bidders $100,000 and I'm still out the $120,000 sellers fee.

So in essence, to "try and see" what the car brings would possible cost the OWNER of the car 22U% of the hammer price? So in this case of high-bid at $1 million, it would cost the owner $220,000 for him to keep his car!

Is that correct? I know fee go down as prices rise, I was just using the base prices.
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  #33  
Old 01-22-2026, 02:50 PM
LT1vette LT1vette is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZ Nova View Post
So IF I say a reserve at 1.3 million. I would hand over ownership prior to the auction.

On sale day, I have "someone" bid the car up and it stops with MY bidder at 1 million. MY bidder would have to fork over, 1 mill for the car, and $100,000 buyers fee, I would have to caught up $120,000. I would then get the million from the auction house, but I would have to pay MY bidders $100,000 and I'm still out the $120,000 sellers fee.

So in essence, to "try and see" what the car brings would possible cost the OWNER of the car 22U% of the hammer price? So in this case of high-bid at $1 million, it would cost the owner $220,000 for him to keep his car!

Is that correct? I know fee go down as prices rise, I was just using the base prices.
The car would not have sold. You had the reserve at 1.3, your bidder stopped at 1 mill.
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Arrowsmith (01-25-2026)
  #34  
Old 01-22-2026, 05:32 PM
Formula455SD Formula455SD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZ Nova View Post
So IF I say a reserve at 1.3 million. I would hand over ownership prior to the auction.

On sale day, I have "someone" bid the car up and it stops with MY bidder at 1 million. MY bidder would have to fork over, 1 mill for the car, and $100,000 buyers fee, I would have to caught up $120,000. I would then get the million from the auction house, but I would have to pay MY bidders $100,000 and I'm still out the $120,000 sellers fee.

So in essence, to "try and see" what the car brings would possible cost the OWNER of the car 22U% of the hammer price? So in this case of high-bid at $1 million, it would cost the owner $220,000 for him to keep his car!

Is that correct? I know fee go down as prices rise, I was just using the base prices.
If your bidder bids over the reserve price. Then yes... they/you are liable for the buyer/seller fees as that would be considered a sale.
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  #35  
Old 01-23-2026, 12:16 PM
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That's what I thought, YES I had a brain fart with the whole 1.3 reserve and only getting to a 1 million.
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'78 Z28 4sp being restored
'70 W30 convert TRIBUTE
'70 CANADIAN Nova SS396 L78 Pro Street
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'67 CANADIAN Nova SS 427 10 sec. driver
'66 CANADIAN Nova SS Race Car
'69 FIREBIRD Tubbed Racecar

'31 ALL STEEL Chevy P.U. GONE (EX-WIFES NOW)
'61 CANADIAN Pontiac Bubble top 409+/4sp (SOLD)
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  #36  
Old 01-23-2026, 11:34 PM
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A FB thread is discussing the two Z16 1965 Chevelles that sold at Mecum. 1-2 folks are saying that both of the cars were rebodied, and that it was not disclosed. I know we have a '65 expert on the board.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=...59319987838099
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  #37  
Old 01-24-2026, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John View Post
A FB thread is discussing the two Z16 1965 Chevelles that sold at Mecum. 1-2 folks are saying that both of the cars were rebodied, and that it was not disclosed. I know we have a '65 expert on the board.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=...59319987838099


I must be missing something/not seeing anything of rebodies on that F’Book thread, but there’s a discussion w/ Jeff involved on the Chevelle site, click here…
https://www.chevelles.com/threads/z16.1185121/

~ Pete

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  #38  
Old 01-24-2026, 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by PeteLeathersac View Post


I must be missing something/not seeing anything of rebodies on that F’Book thread, but there’s a discussion w/ Jeff involved on the Chevelle site, click here…
https://www.chevelles.com/threads/z16.1185121/

~ Pete

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From that thread:

J.R. Maroney
Keep in mind these cars are body replacements. The only thing original is the trim tag. So $200k for a small piece of tin stamped with the letter M.

I'm just curious.
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  #39  
Old 01-24-2026, 03:17 AM
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I see it now but had to click through the poster’s profile.
Yikes if true, especially if both cars.

~ Pete

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Last edited by PeteLeathersac; 01-24-2026 at 03:36 AM.
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  #40  
Old 01-24-2026, 02:35 PM
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Here are the VIN and trim tags for three of the four Z-16's mentioned above as rebodies. It's my understanding that if you know what to look for you can tell if a Z-16 is a rebody. If you are looking to purchase a car at auction or anywhere for that matter, one of the first things to do is Google the VIN. If a car has been sold before you can usually find some discussion on it somewhere. There are lots of clones, rebodies, restamps, reproduction trim tags and fender tags out there. There is also a lot a reproduction paperwork for these cars. You can't believe what sellers are saying about a car. It's best to have an expert third party look at a car you're interested in before shelling out six figures for a car that isn't as advertised.
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