Grandfather's 68 SS Camaro.

[JRC99]

Pulled the pan off tonight. I could feel the grit in the bottom of it. I'm very glad I listened to the folks on here and my friends outside of here who told me it needed to come out of the car. Might check one of the bearings tomorrow just to see how bad they're mangled. I know it needs a set regardless (and even if it somehow didn't. I see no reason not to do it).

[Too Many Projects]

May as well accept that the engine needs to come down to bare block, tank cleaned and start from there. That "grit" can hide all over in the block, especially oil passages and come back to haunt you.
How is the new job going ? I assembled Fords for a year too, waaaay back in '72/73.
But I did drive a Chevrolet to work...

[JRC99]

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects

May as well accept that the engine needs to come down to bare block, tank cleaned and start from there. That "grit" can hide all over in the block, especially oil passages and come back to haunt you.
How is the new job going ? I assembled Fords for a year too, waaaay back in '72/73.
But I did drive a Chevrolet to work...

Job's going okay. It's rough on the body but the pay's good. Call me hardheaded but I really, really don't want to go to a bare block. Afraid I'll never get the damn thing back together if I go that far. Who knows, I'll probably end up doing it.

[BJCHEV396]

Good luck,hope it goes well for you!

[67since67]

Originally Posted by JRC99

Job's going okay. It's rough on the body but the pay's good. Call me hardheaded but I really, really don't want to go to a bare block. Afraid I'll never get the damn thing back together if I go that far. Who knows, I'll probably end up doing it.

Please Learn from my experience with a Chevelle I bought a few years back.

Engine had 800 miles on rebuild, looked great on the builder's invoice, SpeedPro stock 11-1 forged pistons, ARP bolts in re-sized rods, balanced, new vales and guides etc.

Oil came out looking like liquid graphite, sludge in filter. And pan. UH OH!

Bearings were down to base metal, crank had grooves, five rods out of round, loose valve guides and grit everywhere.

After a back to basics rebuild put up great numbers on the dyno and break-in oil came out clean. Runs great and runs to redline with confidence.

Save your nickels and dimes, get a competant engine builder involved, no short cuts, and it will be good for another forty years!

[JRC99]

Originally Posted by 67since67

get a competent engine builder involved,

There we see the problem and my biggest fear. I never hear anything positive about any machine shop or builder, and when I do, they're halfway across the country and or have a year long waiting list.

[Too Many Projects]

From a previous post "The fella who built it also said he'd gladly help rebuild it so that'll be cool!"

Is that not a viable source of help anymore ?

[JRC99]

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects

From a previous post "The fella who built it also said he'd gladly help rebuild it so that'll be cool!"

Is that not a viable source of help anymore ?

I forgot, honestly. Yeah, I need to reach back out to him.