Vacuum Advance and why to use it on the street

[Hemicolt]

So now I need to use coil packs and everything that goes with it so I can make it work like a LS motor with a carb.? Lmao.
I believe we are just about done here. How will this look with the chrome reverse wheels for that Day2 look? lol

On the crate motors you listed. The 620 horse has a VA dist. It also has a mild hyd. roller. Yes, those specs are on the mild side for a roller. Looks like they can get away with a VA on that setup. But that's not mine.
The 720 horse has less camshaft than I have and it also has alum. heads. An alum. head does not retain heat like a cast iron head. Again, not like mine. But, on that note. They do not have a VA dist. Hmmm.... wonder why?
I have 32 less cubic inches, no alum. heads but I still make 704 h.p. This is alot more than their 620 h.p. version and almost as much as there 720 h.p. version.
I have more camshaft than the 720 h.p., but have less cyl. head than their 620 h.p. Which goes back to my original statement about cyl. pressure and timing events in the camshaft.
Anyway. We are wasting our time here. You think what I have doesn't work and I know it does. I'm not going to change anything.

[Supergas990]

I don't have dog in this fight, but I understand what Hemicolt is saying. It makes sense and works very well, especially under specific circumstances.

On our 582ci race motor we ran our motor with the advance locked at 36 degrees. This thing was a beast 4.6 bore, 4 3/8 stroke, long rod BBC. Dart 360s and 14.5:1 compression (Motor makes 1,000hp straight up).

At first we had a handful to get it started without the engine kicking back. That was easily solved by adding a retard module for starting only. After getting it to fire, this motor needs the time I can give it to cleanly/completely burn all the fuel getting dumped into it.

Vacuum advance is nice for my 327 street motor, but when you're trying to burn an execessive amount of fuel you need to give the motor time to work.

Blair