Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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[ QUOTE ]
There is no specification for squeezing a rivet and producing a reproducable outcome on the back side that could be used to ligitimize or dismiss a car, its tag or its restotration as a fake. This is a serious board that many in the hobby look up to right? If we are joking around we have a lounge.... [/ QUOTE ] There is no specification that I am aware of for squeezing a rivet, but if enough are studied you will find a trend of some sort that will differentiate an original from a fake. The mirror method is an old school idea which does not lend itself to documenting the backside of TT. A fiber optic scope is the best method and will allow you photographically document the reverse side of trim tags. Not to mention that it will also allow you to ID sections of firewall that have been transplanted with the intent to preserve original rivets. |
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#2
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[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ] There is no specification for squeezing a rivet and producing a reproducable outcome on the back side that could be used to ligitimize or dismiss a car, its tag or its restotration as a fake. This is a serious board that many in the hobby look up to right? If we are joking around we have a lounge.... [/ QUOTE ] There is no specification that I am aware of for squeezing a rivet, but if enough are studied you will find a trend of some sort that will differentiate an original from a fake. The mirror method is an old school idea which does not lend itself to documenting the backside of TT. A fiber optic scope is the best method and will allow you photographically document the reverse side of trim tags. Not to mention that it will also allow you to ID sections of firewall that have been transplanted with the intent to preserve original rivets. [/ QUOTE ] Years ago I Did exactly that - trying to find a pattern when the first repop TT's came out. I Stomped around several salvage yards in the late 80's with a dental mirror. My conclusion was that because these cars were mass produced there was no time to worry about much more than if the rivit properly attached. Additionally since there is no specification within the AIM for how the rivit is to be compressed - then there is no standardization. What you are left with is cosmetic variations. As to the visual indicator of firewall transplantation I suppose you could observe that if the work is sloppy or seam sealer was not applied. |
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#3
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There is no reason to remove a trim tag other than to make a car something it wasnt from the factory,differnt color,or options right? A trim tag on a 67 camaro tells a lot about the car and a car with the right options on the tag would bring big money like a 4L code or 4K.I would walk away from a car with a re riveted tag.
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Ron C. 67 RSZ/28 67 Z/28 71 SS LS5 chevelle |
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#4
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...There is no reason to remove a trim tag other than to make a car something it wasnt from the factory... [/ QUOTE ] I'm totally against tag dancing but here's a couple legit reasons of why a tag may need to be removed...anyone have more?. 1) Not a great thing to do for many reasons but if a body is being chemically dipped, aluminum tags and other parts need to be removed that the process will destroy.. 2) With cars being stored where security is less than perfect, even though it's best to have tags that have never been removed, it'd be better to have such a thing than the tags stolen...there's been a few threads here in the past where this has happened.. ![]() ~ Pete
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I like real cars best...especially the REAL real ones! |
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#5
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1) Not a great thing to do for many reasons but if a body is being chemically dipped, aluminum tags and other parts need to be removed that the process will destroy.. ~ Pete [/ QUOTE ] I have a friend that dipped his 69 years ago and was unaware of the risks and the dipping process vaporized his tag. ![]()
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Carl
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#6
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Most if not all the trim tags I have seen look nothing like the photo. The centers are open and the rivet folds around the back side. Then seam sealer is applied to the void left in the center of the rivet. I doubt there is a standard look to these. As for removal of the tag, if you do not and have it dipped, blasted, etc, you will ruin the tag instantly. Even a trip in the bead cabinet with to much pressure will warp a tag before you know you even did it. I have had cars in the shop with so much build up of paint on the tag it was un-readable. So much build-up that I thought the tag was a fake. The best way I know to clean the tag is with a mild paint stripper. Anything else and you will be looking at a repo tag..BKH
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#7
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And I would suppose that if you needed to take a trim tag off for any reason...you could document the process fairly easily with a video camera...
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Bruce Choose Life-Donate! |
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