I just found this topic and I have got to say that to question wheither you should race these cars is silly. It was said early in the post, if you want an award winner, buy a cheap, low option, underpowered, paperweight and dump a pile of money on it. I understand that some of you guys are playing with lower production numbers than I am, but you have to understand why these cars were so popular: they would go like stink down the quarter mile! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] Rob and I had a lot of time discussing lifes little events as he was hauling my car with the 'Yenko up to Martin a couple of weeks ago and we came to the conclusion that sheet metal can be straightened and motors can be rebuilt.
Some of you are asking what this a-hole is doing commenting on this topic. I have a '69 Hurst/Olds with 39,000 original miles on it. When I purchased it in '95 it had 24,000 miles on it. When I was hauled up to MI, it was only the 4th time the car had been hauled on a trailer since I have owned it. I had to drive over 200 miles to make the point so I could have the car trailered up. I had to drive over 200 miles to get back home after the race. On the way back home, the passenger glass was busted out by a rock thrown from a semi as I was passing him. I am not going to stop driving the car because of that incident. The local drag strip announcer comes to life when I go up and do my burnout. I am doing with the car what I want to do. COPO Pete has the correct idea, a restored car is not correctly restored until it can run a number down the drag strip! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/

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If you are afraid of blowing up an original numbers engine, pull it and put in another bullet. The real one will sit in the corner and be fine as you thrash the crap out of the "cheap one". Build it like you want, drive it like you want, but keep them going no matter what! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif[/img]