my first restoration!

[earntaz]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: njsteve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Awesome! Enjoy the fun. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

(Just a reminder- always cover the windshield glass with a blanket when anywhere grinding near it....Ii made that mistake once and ruined a brand new, date-coded windshield. Those sparks permanently melted holes in the glass that were too deep to polish out).</div></div>

Been there -- done that ... just ONCE!! Life is a learning process ...

[black69]

The 'kid' helping me cut off the bolt was part of the helper crew at the shop. He saves the mechanics and body guys from things they don't want to do. I doubt he had the experience the shop owner has, we were working on the car after everyone else was gone. I asked for the help and the kid was good with the grinder, as I never used an air grinder before. Lesson learned (no sparks on glass!).

[black69]

Ok, I need some help [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img]

Enough folks said I would be foolish to dip the car as a lot of it is rust free (I can create problems that come up later).

So what are good ways to get the sound deadening material off inside the quarters and inside the wheel wells? (the whole reason I was having it dipped).

Or do I have the shop scrape it off with a scrapers and a torch? Then wire brush the rest off? I heard Walnut shells work for stuff like this?

And are all glass bead media created equal?

Hope to have it on a rotisserie this weekend (while checking out different media blasting choices around Chicago).

[njsteve]

There's some stuff called Peelaway 7 that is at Home Depot, etc. Here is a link to someone who used it to remove wheel well undercoating. Amazing stuff. It was designed for removing linoleum tile cement.

http://www.svend.net/mustang/ww73/ww73.html

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintag...orks-great.html

[black69]

well she got on a rotisserie today! It was a lot of hard work stripping it (top side), but I did most of it at their shop. (btw, the old scratched windshield I scrapped did have the pits from the grinder sparks in it, just as predicted. You guys were right about that!).

The restoration shop took the rear end out and the front suspension, doors off, and the firewall stuff.

Going to be blasted tomorrow (settled on glass beads for everything, but walnut shells for outer body). They will remove all the brake lines in the morning before the media blaster gets there.

Its funny, the whole bottom of the car is the original dipping primer (gray), no rust proof. There is no blue paint on it (yet all the restorations I see, those cars are painted body color underneath). I am going to have it painted gray underneath like it was born. I will get pictures of that in the morning.

I am EXCITED!!!!!! Hope to watch some of the blasting tomorrow.

[Postsedan]

Bob,

I agree......paint the bottom as you know it was when it left the factory. I too....have restored cars that were not the normal.

I am so happy that you are very much involved and having great fun in the build.

KEEP THE PICS COMING.

Dan

[m22mike]

How about some shots of the underside.. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

Mike

[black69]

the updates are here. The car came out of walnut shell and glass beading fine (10hrs for $1400, I watched most of it)! So far at $50/hr, I am only a day and a 1/2 of shop labor (they had to take the rear end out and the K frame, etc, front suspension, brake lines, etc). All the floors are mint! firewall is mint. Frame rails are mint, all the numbers on the body show up nicely. Media blaster said mopar underbodys are way more complicated than a GM.

I had them take all the sound deadener out of the quarters and wheel wells. Walnut shells rock for that. That car had NO real B5 blue paint under it, it was all the dipping primer. It had only a hazing of rust underneath that turned out to be nothing.

They will now hand sand it and etch/primer it today. We have an agreement to just replace what is needed on the quarters without a full replacement. That is where the labor charges will start to roll in. Doing it with a TIG welder.

Excited and very nervous!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (the job they did on a 67 chevelle convert sitting next to my car was to die for, it was perfect perfect perfect for body fit and no defects when I looked down the sides, so I think things will turn out ok).

http://artiesrestorations.com/70plymouthcuda.html

[black69]

My stress level is going down. Just paid my first $5K check (100hrs), included removal of all stuff in engine bay less engine, front and back suspension, everything under car,remove remaining caulk in wheel well and wire brush, hand sand every square inch of car (inside fenders too) post media blasting, spray with epoxy primer, completed basic rear quarter metal work and replacement of one extention (my NOS stash).

Eventually the car goes on a rotisserie to allow for comfortable hammering out of the welds for minimal filler. They straightened out some old body work (grinding areas).

Trunk floor is so nice in this car.

All repairs below the belt line.

No doubt it has a ways to go!

[black69]

Getting there! Took forever to get that little rubber bumper!