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#1
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Aluminum or steel driveshaft ?
Now that Freddie has made sense of my broken tailhousing, I'm wondering which material for a new driveshaft. The engine is a 496 capable of 600 hp/torque. That seems to be the area where certain things get more expensive. Looking for recommendations of material and known, reliable, sources to order from.
Thanks !
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#2
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I'm using a Strange steel shaft in my car. I used several Inland Empire Driveline shafts in customer's cars over the years. Denny's and some others are nice too. Aluminum is nice, but more expensive. Go with the 1350 joints. You'll need to swap the yoke on the rear end and get a new one for the transmission, but it's worth it. Be sure that it's high speed balanced. The M20 won't hold up to that much power if you use slicks.
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Freddie 1969 Camaro RS/SS396 (427) 4 speed Last edited by big gear head; 10-24-2023 at 02:56 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to big gear head For This Useful Post: | ||
Too Many Projects (10-24-2023) |
#3
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X2...what Freddie said
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#4
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#5
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Been looking into driveshafts for this and the length is an issue with critical rotational rpm. The shaft, itself, will be about 58" and at that length and a 6500 rpm speed, Denny's is the only one who will touch this. All the others drop out at about 52-4" for that rpm.
I just talked with their phone rep and I will, most likely, be ordering their 3.5" nitrous ready pro package with Mark Williams yokes on both ends. Their 4" aluminum isn't all that much more, but since I need new rear gears and stronger axles too, I'll stay with the steel. Thinking about Mark Williams for the gears and axles too. The Strange gears for street/strip warn they are susceptible to teeth breaking under heavy shock loads and not really suitable for drag racing with slicks...hmmm. I don't need to break them next, so will be talking with Mark Williams about their street/strip gears and axles soon. Need to decide if I want to modify the axle tubes for bolt in axles first...
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#6
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Quote:
As far as the driveshaft the aluminum is easier to accelerate as its rotating mass, my T/S car was faster with aluminum Last edited by rszmjt; 10-30-2023 at 12:44 AM. |
#7
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I have a Denny's HD steel driveshaft in my 67 Camaro and it has taken everything my 525 hp 406 has thrown at it with no problem. Lifetime warranty on U-joints as well.
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c2_...iveshafts.html
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Camaro, 'Cuda, Super Bee, Duster, Blazer and some trucks |
#8
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Quote:
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The Following User Says Thank You to olredalert For This Useful Post: | ||
Too Many Projects (10-24-2023) |
#9
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Oh, Boy, looking at Strange wasn't a slippery slope, it was a cliff...
Complete 3.5" driveshaft with 1350 yokes, 4.11 gears with install kit and alloy axles. I shouldn't need any more than that to have a reliable driveline assembly, but..... I need a part time, winter job again...
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#10
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Would be best to go with someone that balances driveshafts at high rpm if car will ever be raced. If you're only going to car shows, balancing rpm doesn't really matter.
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...................... John Brown This isn't rocket surgery..... |
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