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#1
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full frame-off restoration has taught me, it's that the vast majority of reproduction parts that I have encountered are, simply put, garbage.
![]() I am absolutely floored at how bad some of these parts are. ![]() Right now I could go on a rant that would make Dennis Miller blush, but I won't. Just had to get that off my chest. We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming. Eric |
#2
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Yeah,
What he said... I think Kwhizz will agree too ![]() Dan.
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69 300 Deluxe Post Sedan Frost Green 69 SS396 300 Deluxe Post Sedan Lemans Blue SOLD 70 Buick Skylark Post Sedan Gulfstream Blue 70 Buick Skylark Post Sedan Burnished Saddle http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PM3DE8qI2NY https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Yn4xEmGypUw |
#3
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[ QUOTE ]
I think Kwhizz will agree too ![]() Dan. [/ QUOTE ] I think ANYONE who has bought a quantity of reproduction parts would agree. I could pay for most of them if I only received a nickle for everytime I have heard the, "you are the only one who has ever complained about it" line. ![]()
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#4
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It absolutley amazes me that they continue to make such garbage... they are obviously not restorers or true historians they seem to give approval to things that could have just as easily done right. I guess when a company becomes so large the person who makes the decisions on exactness doesn't even have a clue what he is looking at... he says "looks good to me."
Maybe there needs to be a certification system developed maybe by the CRG? Where the restoration companies would submit their products for evaluation on correctness. Also if a company would put honest descriptions as to correctness in their catalogs (Ames does this and you are rarely disappointed by their descriptions) they state whether it is accurate, best available, needs finish work... what ever the case may be. A Chevrolet parts place could do themselves well in the long run by adopting such a system... ![]()
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
#5
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I suppose I should clarify somewhat...
I've spent the last week in what can only be described as a clutch linkage debacle from h&ll. Yes, it involves repop parts...z-bar, pushrod, frame bracket, etc. I've been on the look-out for original parts for over a year now, haven't found anything so I took a chance and bought a reproduction kit. I should'a known better... I still can't tell if this "kit" was designed for a `66 or a `67, (they are different) or something else entirely. I'm to the point where it functions...sort'a. (I sure would be happy if the clutch pushrod boot on the firewall would stay in place when the clutch is depressed.) Good thing I have both `66 AND `67 clutch linkage parts on-hand, because it took a mix of the 2 to come up with a system that will even function. Needless to say I'm still on the lookout for gennie `67 BB clutch linkage parts, and if I can find them, this repop crap will unceremoniously meet a timely end in a garbage dumpster. (don't even get me started on repop sheetmetal.....) |
#6
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It is getting worse
![]() How about the last bunch of fuel line clamps from Rick's. Powder coated S&*t brindel blue ![]() Can you say Chy-Neez. ![]() 1st. man law for repo parts....no f..in powder coat, save it for the lawn mower. There now I feel better. ![]() Mike |
#7
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I am well into the frame off resto of a 69 El Camino. It's been 3 years since I finished my Chevelle, and I've found that a lot of the restoration parts have been getting better. I think you have to know which parts would have the potential to be made poorly, when you start looking. Here's a few of the repro parts I've found to be well made. Most of the chassis parts, like brake/fuel lines, control arm bushings, body mounts, most of the bolts, brake parts (front/rear) All the front end parts like ball joints, springs, tie rods, tires etc, are well made. All the engine parts were fine, like pistons, rods, cams, bearings, valves, etc. Then the interior parts from legendary are good. I but new springs in the seats and they were great.
The parts you have to stay away from are things like fenders, quarters, door skins, moldings, bumpers, etc. For these types of things, I found NOS parts. I drove 12 hours to get an nos door and door skin, just because I wouldn't use repro steel. Bottom line, I think a lot of the repro parts that I bought were good. You just have to know what is good and what is bad, and RETURN the crap thats no good, till the start to make it right. I also found the the US made parts are good and the Chinese stuff like fenders bumpers are junk. Another big problem with the used/nos parts, is that some guys refuse to ship larger items. Too lazy to crate and ship? They shouldn't advertize them on the net. They may as well stick the ad in a local paper. I have no patience for them, and I won't deal with them. I only did the drive to get the door parts because I needed them to install the nos quarter. |
#8
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I'm sure a couple of other body men and do-it-yourselfers can chime in on this one as well. I have done a 69 Camaro, a 55 Bel-Air, a 71 Chevelle, and of course, a couple of Nova's. I don't think that there wasn't one panel that fit just right and I know a lot of people gripe about "bondo", but that's how you have to "make them fit". 80% of my 69 Camaro is repop sheetmetal and the doors were a full inch shorter then the originals. Now how does that happen if the supplier to Goodmark is using the right tooling? Didn't they ever check them against originals? And yes I had the quarters mated with the doors on in the original position. Atleast that is how I was taught to put quarters on. When I took the old door off and put the new one on, there was more then a half inch gap on the quarter side and the same at the fender.
The only stuff the fit well, on the repop side, was the stuff for the 55 and I bought all of that metal from CARS Inc. I have been finding out that the stuff for the Novas isn't all that bad. The Chevelle stuff, for me, had fit rather nicely! Go figure?
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Jed 69,70,71 Nova's 1955 Bel Air and a 69 Camaro. |
#9
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I bought a Repro Front Bumper for my 66 Chevelle Convert and when Installing it found out that the Bumper Bolt holes were not centered and the Bumper ....Ended up cutting and welding a set of repro bumper brackets with an offset to get the Bumper closer to center.........I have since found a GM Bumper which is now out for Chrome Plating ........Remember......It's the Hobbie's and "Our" Problem because we "Allow" this to happen.......Like James said.......A certification system to Rate this "Junk" would be great........As it is now, we can't even mention who makes and sells this Crap for Fear of Litigation (Lawyers)....They have us "Trained" well..........
Ken
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![]() The Best things in life......Aren't Things |
#10
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[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ] I think Kwhizz will agree too ![]() Dan. [/ QUOTE ] I think ANYONE who has bought a quantity of reproduction parts would agree. I could pay for most of them if I only received a nickle for everytime I have heard the, "you are the only one who has ever complained about it" line. ![]() [/ QUOTE ] That's almost verbatim of the phone call I just had. Imagine that. |
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