![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Today's Posts | Search |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Need some schoolin'
Can someone explain to me how the length (long vs. JR) of a traction bar affects performance and drivability?
__________________
1969 Z28 1972 Corvette |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
That snubber had better contact directly under the spring eye and tranfer force directly up into it. Strongest part of the spring and the most leverage applied. A lot of traction bars fall a few inches short and push on the leaf spring. That bends the springs in that spot and is hard on them. As far as those Lakewood JR's, I can't see how they can possibly work and they must be just for "show". I would never put them on anything.
__________________
1962 Biscayne O-21669 MKIV/M-22 1962 Bel Air Sport Coupe 409/1,000 |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Darren,
Mark's answer is right on the money, but you also asked how the length could affect performance. The length of the bar will move what drag racers call Instant Center (we used to call it Quick Center in the old days). Simple explanation is: By varying the length AND angle of the bar(s) you can adjust the "balance point" of the body weight in relation to the axle centerline. The point of it all is get proper weight transfer for better traction. Making those changes doesn't do much for "rideablity" on the street though. ![]() |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Always good to shim the back of the bar also. When the clutch is let out that bar wants to be pointing up toward the seat of the cockpit. The front of the bar needs to be in the upward direction under load, looking like it is trying to lift the front of the car. Most rubber snubbers are too tall today. The older Lakewoods use a more round, flatter snubber. Adjustment on each side is important also. Both sides can be preloaded for different conditions. I don't think you can adjust/preload the JR bars. Besides they were made for your kids go-cart anyways. Look in some of the earlier SS and drag magazines. Late 60's early 70's. Always good articles on that stuff. Have fun!
![]() |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
[ QUOTE ]
Most rubber snubbers are too tall today. The older Lakewoods use a more round, flatter snubber. Adjustment on each side is important also. Both sides can be preloaded for different conditions. [/ QUOTE ] When I stalled the CE traction bars on my car, I cut the snubbers as needed.
__________________
Rob 69 <font color="orange">HO</font> Z-28 |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]() ![]() ![]() |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thanks for the replies guys...
![]()
__________________
1969 Z28 1972 Corvette |
![]() |
|
|