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#1
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Is it better to set the valves after the break in period hot or cold. Would the settings be the same hot or cold. Is there a method thats better to use. Its a GM stock L88 cam and short block. Thanks, Larry.
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#2
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Use this: http://www.camaros.org/302valves.shtml
and for cold lash with iron block and alumimun heads subtract .006" from your lash specs. Do not set at TDC! Check lash later with hot motor and adjust your cold specs from that.
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1968 Z/28 34,000 mile, born with engine and trans, Shipper, California car, Fathom Blue, deluxe interior, M21, 3.55 Posi 1962 Oldsmobile Jetfire, Factory all Aluminum V8 Turbocharged and Methanol Injected TURBO ROCKET engine, 4 speed Hydramatic, 4 link rear suspension, 3.36 Anti-Spin differential, California car, PS, PB, PW, AC, Jetfire 2 option package. |
#3
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COPO Pete needs to chime in here, but if I recall he & JJ set their ZL1 & L88 engines with the old "set the intake as the exhaust opens, set the exhaust as intake closes" method...I know those cams have quite a bit more duration than my 143, but I'm pretty sure it will still work.
BTW: setting them warm is preferred, but the cold clearances will get you close. |
#4
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Rob is correct. JJ always sets his hot. When exhaust starts to open, set intake and when intake is near closed set exhaust. On my ZL-1, I set them cold, but with the aluminum block, I set them .013 less then what I need them at, cause that is what the block and head grow combined.
Peter |
#5
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Hello, thank-you for the imfo. The motor is stock GM short block, Gm aluminum heads, 193 intake, M22, and a 67 12 bolt 411 rearend in a 55 chevy 2 dr sedan. Sounds like the hot setting is the best. I'll try it this weekend. Larry.
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