Starter or solenoid? Hot...no start $#@%&!

[ss427copo]

Okay....whose been here and fixed it? On mt Impala,
Most times when hot and a few times cool, hit the key....nada Lights don't dim...solenoid doesn't engage.

Connections are good, battery is new, cables are newer. When it does this, I put the big charger on it and high amp it, BOOM...cracks perect.

Anyone fixed theirs before I go nuts? Of course, it never does it when I wanna put a volt meter on it, so HELP!
(auto trans, so the weak link, neutral saftey ain't the problem like on 4-spds)

Jeff x2

[SS427]

It is likely the solenoid and is very common especially with headers. The solenoid gets so hot that it builds up so much resistance and has huge voltage drops so that there is not enough left to pull the solenoid in. Normally a new solenoid will solve the issue as will a solenoid heat shield that are readily available reproduction. You said the battery cables are new otherwise that could also be a cause and for the same reason, they loose their ability to carry enough current as the resistance is too high.

Back in my drag racing days we solved the repeating issue by wiring in a Ford solenoid and keeping it out of the hottest part of the engine. Problem solved but likely not one you would use on a restored car.

[bwag]

There was a factory bulletin about hot start failures. The repair involved changing the starter drive return spring to a lighter tension spring.If I was doing the repair I would replace the solenoid while it was apart and make sure the brushes were good.

[55chevy]

Years ago I had a 74 Nova SS that was my daily driver and it would do that all the time. Even with a new starter after driving it awhile I'd shut it off and it wouldn't want to start. I just kept an old screw driver with me, when it would do that I'd turn on the switch, then reach down between the header with the screw driver and manually arc'd the starter terminals on the solenoid and it would start right up. After awhile that became a pain in the ass and I cured the problem by rewiring the starter switch with heavier gauge wire. No problems after that.

[Jeff H]

A lot of times it's the contacts inside the solenoid that get burned and make for too much resistance when hot. I pulled my starter out this year, took the solenoid aparts and rotated the contacts to the clean side and I haven't had any problems this summer after that. I also wrapped the starter and solenoid in some heatwrap to help but that probably isn't an option on a restored show car.

[DarrenX33]

I've recently been thru a weekend of having to push starting my car cause of the same symptoms (Right Rick? ). Also noticed a glitchy amp meter in the dash.. I went to change the starter out and it appeared the connections to the solenoid were kinda loose. I stopped in my tracks and put it all back together and so far all is well. Amp meter is solid now to..

[Keith Tedford]

A friend was having similar slow roll problems with his bucket seat and console car. There is a lot of fine gauge wire in the ignition switch circuit, especially when it has to run out through the neutral safety switch and back. He had heavy gauge battery cables made up and replaced all the ignition switch wires with 12 gauge and had no more problem. Our big block cars have bench seat and the neutral safety switch on the column. I've never had a slow roll problem with any of them. Lucky? Maybe. We have some aluminum faced high heat cloth that we have wrapped starters and solenoids with. So far we haven't had any slow roll problems with them either. Lucky? Maybe.