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#1
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leaving metal natural on parts
I have read several ideas on people using fluid film, boeshield, rem oil or cat blast paint. I used a product called rpm on my coil springs. Anyone have something they really liked that they didn't have to reapply? Car won't be driven alot but i don't want rust. Not sure how some of the products will tolerate brake heat on rotors and calipers either
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Bill |
#2
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Re: leaving metal natural on parts
I powdercoated my 2-piece rotors and calipers. Calipers got black and rotors cast blast in color. After the 2-piece rotors were re-assembled, I had the local napa turn them to get the powdercoating off the brake surface.
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69 Chevelle SS L88 "Day-2" Lemans Blue 69 Chevelle SS L34 postsedan project-Azure Turquoise |
#3
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Re: leaving metal natural on parts
The sealer that comes in the Eastwood black phosphating kits works very well also but I have had great luck with Boe-Shield.
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#4
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Re: leaving metal natural on parts
When I did the front suspension on the Chevelle a few winters back I decided to go a similar way as Jim (wheelhop). This is not a trailered show car, it is driven regularly in the summer and once in a great while I get caught in the rain.
I had the cast stuff powder coated to appear cast (guy up in Delavan, WI). I really like the results of Rick's (SS427) process but not sure how it would hold up being driven regularly or even if it got soaked in the rain. This worked for my non concourse application and is holding up very well even after 3 or 4 thousand miles and being caught in a few rain storms. Much better than "cast blast" in my opinion as it has a more "as cast" dull/course finish and much more durable. Jake |
#5
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Re: leaving metal natural on parts
It does not matter what you do, it will not look factory, unless you let it surface rust. I just could't live with that, so I used some high heat engine paint. Normally not a rattle can fan, but DupliColor ceramic 500 degree in cast iron (DE1651) is pretty close to natural metal.
Sandblast, apply paint, and then bake at 500 degrees in a regular ole kitchen oven. If you just said your wife won't let you, then you may as well check yours at the door. Anyway, this stuff gets as hard as powder coating, but is much thinner, so less likely to chip.
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Don't believe everything you read on the internet ... Ben Franklin |
#6
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Re: leaving metal natural on parts
When i restore parts that are supposed to be just raw natural cast metal, i grab a clean rag and dip it into a small tin of dull clear coat.
Rubbing it in by hand gives the raw cleaned metal a nice protective coating without the mess or over spray. Lasts a long time too. Even after years if any rust returns you can lightly sand the rust spot with a hand held sponge sander and re-apply the clear coat to make it look good again with a quick touch up.
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"NOSTALGIA It takes us to a place were we ache to go again" |
#7
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Re: leaving metal natural on parts
I live in a fairly harsh climate. I use winter tires on designated steel rims during the winter season. Many years ago I started spraying the winter rims with Fluid Film and to this day their is no rust on those rims. When I pressure wash the grime off the rims in the spring the oily shield from the Fluid Flim remains untouched.
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#8
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Re: leaving metal natural on parts
I did my front and rear springs, spindles, steering knuckles, and tie rod ends in zinc phosphate and then rubbed them with boeshield. I think they look pretty dang close to natural.I bought the materials from Owens Group @ Palmetto Enterprises. Great products
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