![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
#1
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Bought some parkerizing fluid to do phosphate coating. Kind of cold out in the garage, and besides I don't have a hot plate.
Does this stuff put off any kind of offensive odor?
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Don't believe everything you read on the internet ... Ben Franklin |
#2
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talk to M22Mike Angelo. He does fine work along with his buddy BIG in the Cleveland area. Those guys are goooood!
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#3
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I used a bar-b-que
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#4
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Sammy, thanks for that, but I have never done my own phosphate, no reason to. I have Beringer Plating in Akron OH. Awesome guys. Even some deep pocket buddies of mine use them.
And they do Cad. http://www.beringerplatinginc.com/p-23-about.php Home phosphate does cause some gassing, most likley the reason Charleys hair is that color.. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img] |
#5
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The home brew stuff (like Eastwoods black phosphate) does in fact stink as well as the sealer and permiates your hands. It works a WHOLE lot better if the solution is warm as well as the part. It makes a big difference and looks and works good when done correctly.
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#6
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I got my materials from Palmetto, and did it on the kitchen stove, with an old stainless mixing bowl. The only thing offensive, was when my wife came home early and caught me. Her comment was, "You know you're a redneck when you cook bolts on the kitchen stove."
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#7
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....or just a car guy. Annie rebuilt her carb in the sink so not sure what that makes her....
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#8
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[quote=SS427]....or just a car guy. Annie rebuilt her carb in the sink so not sure what that makes her.... [/quote!!!]
Cool in my book! |
#9
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Unreal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I got my materials from Palmetto, and did it on the kitchen stove, with an old stainless mixing bowl. The only thing offensive, was when my wife came home early and caught me. Her comment was, "You know you're a redneck when you cook bolts on the kitchen stove." </div></div>
Guilty of this as well. I have used the Palmetto solution before. What I found was the metal container bottom got the best phos coating of everything I tried. The parts have to be warm when they go into the warm solution. I have used Beringer (M22Mike's place) before and the usually charge to "bake" the parts before phosphating. Those guys do a great job and know what they are doing. Phil Woj |
#10
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I've used the Palmetto stuff with great results. I've done bolts on a 2 burner hot plate with heatproof glass container. I think it was called Visions glassware.
Be carefull as some glass cookware will fracture with direct heat. Larger items are just too hard too get the heat up and maintain the correct temperature so I've used gas grill for those. Use stainless steel vessels. I have a stainless deep tray that I think was a restaurant item and a big stainless pot from Walmart. No odor but I'd make sure I used it in a well ventilated area. Make sure to coat the parts after removing them. I've got some stuff from ASL (long gone co)called Protech that works well to coat items. I just dip , let dry and buff 'em a little. Boeshield works ok too or even oil. I had some chemical left over from about 18 yrs ago that still worked fine just recently but only had enough for a few small items. I bought some more on ebay and just did a hood latch that came out great. Like the others have said make sure part is clean and rust free. I always glass bead parts first and don't handle them with bare hands and I usually then wipe them with thinner. I started using this stuff years ago when I restored my copo and the those parts still look good. |
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