The Supercar Registry

The Supercar Registry (https://www.yenko.net/forum/index.php)

- Supercar/Musclecar Discussion (https://www.yenko.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=79)

- - 68 l78 (https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=119705)

dont need paper.its the real deal bt rear 375hp cars date codes to the car

Looks solid.
What's the complete stamped axle code/date?

I would just be nervous investing any large amounts of cash with no paperwork.Even though you know it's real it seems the only ones that sell for any decent amount have papers.It's a buyers market and buyers are demanding everything.

I actually bought this car, it was also listed on craigslist. I might start out by adding that this is my first post here. I have wanted a first gen Ralley green car for a while, & with the price I paid for a very solid car, I am thrilled, even if it was simply a small block!

Kurt S in ann arbor--You asked about the complete axle code--the upper line is "BT 1206G1", below is the letter "E". The trim tag has a build date (I think) of third week of January 1968 (It is "01 C" ). The axle mount ubolts, spring perches, brake line & ebrake attachments appear to have been untouched for decades. If the license plate is correct, the car was last driven in Oklahoma in 1984.

I did note that the orig fuel tank sending unit & the fuel line to the front of the car is approx. 3/8". The big block heater box has factory undercoat over the outside seam where it joins the firewall, & it has clearly never been removed. The body & fenders have original paint, no evidence of repaint ever. The "396" is clearly there, & clearly original. I'll be honest, even if i can never document the L78, I am still a very happy camper.

That being said, any suggestions on what to document before I disassemble this car to get it back on the road would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, John.

(By the way, I live in central Michigan)

When you pull the harrison heater core it is date coded and should be real close to the build date of the car.

Cool. Can you make out the name of the selling dealer from the emblem outline on the tail panel?

No disrespect John.It's a cool car and I believe it is real.For the money you have in it you got a great deal.I would get a documented appraisal from a well respected appraiser before the restoration.It would help if you can find a professional photographer you would take detail shots of the restoration.Close ups of anything related to a big block are good.If you replace all trim and emblems,the 396 emblems with the original retainers are gold as far as the originality of the car.
Good luck.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MEANGREEN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I actually bought this car, it was also listed on craigslist. I might start out by adding that this is my first post here. I have wanted a first gen Ralley green car for a while, & with the price I paid for a very solid car, I am thrilled, even if it was simply a small block!

Kurt S in ann arbor--You asked about the complete axle code--the upper line is "BT 1206G1", below is the letter "E". The trim tag has a build date (I think) of third week of January 1968 (It is "01 C" ). The axle mount ubolts, spring perches, brake line & ebrake attachments appear to have been untouched for decades. If the license plate is correct, the car was last driven in Oklahoma in 1984.

I did note that the orig fuel tank sending unit & the fuel line to the front of the car is approx. 3/8". The big block heater box has factory undercoat over the outside seam where it joins the firewall, & it has clearly never been removed. The body & fenders have original paint, no evidence of repaint ever. The "396" is clearly there, & clearly original. I'll be honest, even if i can never document the L78, I am still a very happy camper.

That being said, any suggestions on what to document before I disassemble this car to get it back on the road would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, John.

(By the way, I live in central Michigan)
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