Block Plate
 

Considering making a block plate similar to what you see from Lakewood for the stock GM bellhousing. This is of course to protect the original numbers matching block but still appear stock. I was planning on making it out of 1/4" plate but where the bellhousing bolts up thin it down to like 1/16" so as to not mess up the spacing too much. It will be closely matched to the profile of the block flange so to be not too noticeable. Anyone see a downside to this?Might still need a different pivot ball height but I think the 1/16" can be OK with the trans mount holes and driveshaft etc. The shifter would be back the 1/16" but that would seem OK. Am I overlooking something here? Not SFI rated or anything for drag strip compliance, but more piece of mind in case a clutch were to go.

Just my personal observation Dave, but if the clutch and/or flywheel let go, I'd be more concerned about my feet than the rear of the block. In other words, I think the plate would be of little use if you're still using the 621 bellhousing.

Yeah, it's probably going to cut through the aluminum and into the floor. If you are worried about protecting your car then I'd recommend getting a Quick Time bell housing and use it if you are going to be driving it hard. Paint it silver to make it less noticeable. Put the original parts up and save them for when you want it to be numbers correct.

Couldn't agree more with the above suggestions, protect your 'born-with' legs and feet as well as the block!

Good suggestions.

I've actually got a early 70's vintage Lakewood shield and block plate, but I'm trying to go back to stock appearance. I guess a choice needs to be made for safety or originality.

Maybe the plate and an automatic style trans blanket is the closest compromise? At least that's easy to remove.