Body Alignment
 

Hey guys, Charley suggested I start a thread when I asked him whether it was OK to post this.

I have been meaning to get this pet project done for about 20 years now and finally got around to it. I figured I would post it here because no group understands these cars better and it is a good discussion topic.

I’m offering a toolset online for body alignment of full chassis GM cars that mimic and improve upon the tools used at the factory. They utilize the original chassis and body location-controlled alignment holes used at the factories, eliminating measurements and spacer block setup from symmetrical but less dimensionally controlled features. It also allows alignment while the body is still safely away from the chassis so that you can join the units without worrying about collision of pinch welds and damage to other nested geometry.

Factory photos show these alignment locations being used, but oddly, I’ve never seen these holes referenced in service literature. Some assembly manuals do refer to them vaguely if you’re looking for them.

Also, I’ve never seen an old Kent Moore version of this. Maybe one of you guys has. It’s a little beyond service, but you’d think collision repair and frame alignment shops could’ve used this.

I’ve located these alignment holes in different locations on almost all GM cars from 1955-1996. They change character but they are exactly where they should be in every case.
GM changed the stepped diameter geometry and locations depending on platform and generation, so right now, 1968-1977 GM “A” Body is all I have available. I’ll offer more applications if these sell well enough.

There is something on the market for subframe cars, but it doesn’t actually do the alignment job correctly.
I have something coming for that as well.
And some other items.

I’m interested in your comments.

Here’s the link:
https://www.factoryaccurate.com/

Now you come out with the tools! Where were you a few years back when I was still restoring Chevelles? ;) Nice set of alignment tools you came up with. We always used long pin alignment tools but they were not as accurate and cumbersome so use.

I know. Just one of the many projects that I start and maybe finish years later.

I can't access this site. It says "This site can’t provide a secure connection".

Whats up with that?

It might be your security settings. There has been quite a bit of traffic on the site. I just checked it and it works.

Thanks for all the interest, guys.

JG

I don't see a way to buy these on your website.

Mitch, there's an "Add To Cart" button down under where it says "Products". You then have to go to the little shopping bag icon in the far-right upper corner o the page to checkout.

For you guys from Canada that I'm seeing on there, I'm still trying to figure out the automatic shipping arrangements for that. Stay tuned and thanks again for the interest.

JG

The button is in the information box on the left, I was looking for a separate button...
Gotter done.

Congrats on getting this going.

Thank you, Charley.

I appreciate all the interest and your help. It's not easy finding the time to do this stuff and it's slow building a brand, but it's something I'd rather do more of rather than my regular engineering job. If things go well, there's additional interesting items that I want to add for people with our interest.

I appreciate the guys on this forum more than the watered-down competition and casual enthusiasts.

To all of you, thanks again for the interest.

Looks like mine will be here Friday.

Correct me if I am wrong but this is something that has been around for a while especially in the Auto Body industry. We have been using alignment pins and lasers for quite a while for chassis alignment issues.

Depends on what type of chassis alignment you are talking about.

Pins that aligned the actual body of the car to the chassis are more in the category of BODY alignment and I personally have yet to find pins that align the body to the chassis on these old fully-framed muscle cars outside of the crude ones seen occasionally in factory photos.

That's why I asked the guys on this thread if they have ever seen one sold in the service industry for old body and frame shops. Maybe someone will chime in on this. I originally assumed Kent Moore may have provided these in the OLD GM mechanic kits. I haven't seen one yet.

If they existed, someone on this site has seen them. I know some restorers may have made their own, but I can't speak to that.

There are a few pins in the aftermarket for the Camaro, Nova, Firebird subframe, but they do not provide axial constraint to keep the pin straight and they go in the bushing holes instead of the actual alignment holes so there is no real alignment going on. But, of course there may be some items out there that I have not yet found.

Also, lasers and such are great method that can be adjusted to the needs of a mechanic that has to service a multitude of brands. These pins actually fit frame holes that were designed into the chassis of the specific platform and years I advertised. They changed geometry and size somewhat randomly throughout the years and platforms. I've been to many shows and junkyards searching for this array of data. The pins are less universal than lasers and bushing pins, but are actually tied to the factory control points that were dimensionally controlled upstream to the stamping, fixturing and welding processes.

Ultimately, aligning using only the bushing holes was good enough for the service industry, but not the factory. (Although, the rear pin WAS meant to be put into the rear bushing from 64-67 A-body and 65-67 B-body, but I have not made those sets yet. Two pins (Front and Mid) provide full alignment, the rear pin just sets the flexible unboxed rear section of the chassis for the factory method.)

My knowledge of alignment pins in chassis work is with gauges for checking frame, sub frame straightness. I worked at a heavy collision repair facility for 12 years doing classic vehicle body restoration, but did use gauges for certain structural repair measurements. Lasers have replaced gauges and are far more accurate.
I borrowed a set of gauges when I replaced the entire trunk floor in my Camaro, but retained the original frame rails.