Glass polishing
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One thing that has really bothered me about my rear glass is how many light scratches and a few deep ones it has. The glass is original to the car and I thought before I even consider to replacing it with a new one I should give a shot at trying to buff out the scratches myself. I received a new Griots G9 DA polisher from Santa for Christmas so game on.
My research led me to a product call CeriGlass by CarPro. It is way less expensive than the 3M glass polish that also claims to remove light scratches. I used an interflex pad and CarPro Rayon glass polishing pad. It was tough work, around 6 hours of buffing so far (not all at one time to allow things to cool off including my arms) The surface needs to be kept lubricated with water but I am totally amazed at the results. I still want to spend more time on it to get it even better. What do you all think of the results so far? |
That is amazing! Wow.
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The results look much more clearer. Well worth the effort versus replacing. Been thinking of attempting this myself, thanks for sharing your experience.
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Nice job, great idea to saving original glass
Gregg |
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Thanks for all the positive comments. I am very pleased with the final results. I hope this gives others confidence to tackle this job if they have lightly scratched glass.
I just finished a few minutes ago and did the final clean up. Some advice I can offer is to polish it like you are polishing paint but slow down your travel speed. Set your DA polisher to speed 4, no higher as higher speeds tends to destroy and overheat the interface pad. The Rayon pads need the interface pad because they a fairly thin and should not be used directly onto the backing plate of the DA. Tape off around the glass with painters tape and cover the car with old clean sheets. CeriGlass flings out a lot so keep the DA on the surface of the glass when starting and stopping or else you will have product all over yourself and the walls of your garage. |
Amazing results
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Thank came out amazing! Might have to try it on mine
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Looks fantastic! There is also some additional info about glass polishing in the Fisher Body manual. The tip about marking the scratches with a crayon from the inside might be helpful.
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That is an interesting find Rob, thanks for sharing. I think my DA on speed setting 4 spins a little higher than what this recommends. I don't think I stayed in one spot for more than 5 seconds, I kept the DA moving slowly. Good tip on marking scratches on the inside of the glass.
I was very skeptical that this would even work, but that is no longer the case. |
If the scratch is deeper or is dished- polishing the actual scratch in the recess to a gloss will make it MUCH LESS VISIBLE.
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I had a slight gouge in middle of a swath of scratches on the pass side of my original front glass I used a 3" felt pad flat against the surface to polish the entire glass after I used a dremel to SLOWLY smooth the depth of the scratch.
It is now only noticed if you look for it. |
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